3. The next day was overcast, chilly, and windy, but we decided to go to Alcatraz anyway. Although the self-guided tour was incredibly produced, there was no bar at the gift shop, so we yachted back to the mainland, went to Absinthe for the gin tasting, and decided to find a restaurant on whim. We saw a sign that said taste paul k and walked up to the posted bill of fare to see what was on offer. Despite being short-staffed and seeing the harried bartender and waiter visibly anxious, we decided to give it a try—the middle-eastern–themed menu seemed incredible, and we weren’t done drinking quite yet. The halloumi cheese with peaches, walnuts, mâche, in an orange–coriander vinaigrette was to die for. Peaches have never tasted so good! The mezza platter was also a winner: lamb riblets, smoky baba & pomegranate dips, and the usual array of fine olives, artichokes, and feta. We didn’t get any dessert, but they all sounded amazing, and waiter Richard did an interpretive dessert-menu recitation for us. As for the cocktails, our bartender Lisa (who took a deep breath, smiled, and chatted us up) whipped up a beautifully bittersweet Paul K Negroni (stir for 30 seconds over ice 1 1/2 oz. gin, 1/2 oz. sweet vermouth, 1/2 oz. Campari, strain into chilled cocktail glass, garnish with lemon twist) and Steve’s recipe for a Vesper (the James Bond Martini from Casino Royale).

2. After a few cocktails with Mr. Martini, we taxied to Absinthe in the Hayes Valley section of town. Having discovered its book, The Art of the Bar, we thought this was a perfect place to get both excellent cuisine, and new takes on old-school cocktails. We were right! We loved it so much we came back the next day for a gin tasting at Manager Jeff Hollinger’s suggestion. Try the Martinez: stir for 30 seconds over ice 2 oz. Plymouth gin, 1 oz. Dolin dry vermouth, splash maraschino liqueur, dash orange bitters, strain into chilled cocktail glass, garnish with lemon twist and olive.

1. Before heading to San Francisco, we e-mailed Mr. Martini, host of the podcast Behind the Bar Show, and asked him where we should get a drink. Not only did he recommended one of his favorite places, The Slanted Door, he met us there! The bartenders, as well as the long bar, is incredible. They whipped us up Robert Hess’s recipe for a Rosita to start (stir with ice 1 1/2 oz. silver tequila, 1/2 oz. each sweet and dry vermouths, 1/2 oz. Campari, dash Angostura bitters, strain into ice-filled rocks glass, garnish with lemon twist [from “The Cocktail Spirit with Robert Hess”]), and then proceeded to bring over new concoctions for us to try. After a few hours of exchanging “Cocktales,” we had to excuse ourselves to make our dinner reservation.

4. Our last night in San Francisco was a day before our Anniversary, so we decided to start our evening at the Bar Drake at the Sir Francis Drake Hotel. Talk about gorgeous! We enjoyed a Bar Drake Manhattan (Woodford Reserve bourbon, port, Angostura bitters, maple syrup) and chatted with some nice ladies from back East. They recommended we go to Farrallon for our dinner, so that’s where we headed, just around the corner.

5. The first thing you notice when you walk into Farallon is the décor.  The theme is “Under the Sea”: the lighting is all jellyfish- and sea urchin–shaped, and everyone gets a table that has some feeling of privacy. The special Martinis were infused with black pepper and the dishes exquisite. The wait staff nonpareil.

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