UNOFFICIAL GUIDE TO OMNI from the author of the Rough Guide to Miami

Poor overlooked OMNI! it's the kind of district Miamians always forget about, sandwiched as it is between the nightclubs of Park West, galleries of Wynwood and tony showrooms of the Design District. But that's exactly its appeal: thanks to the influence of each of these nabes, it's a hybrid artsy-grimy-groovy 'hood that has just started to be overrun by profiteering developers. The mall it's named after is currently being renovated into The Shops at OMNI and restaurants and businesses are popping up along busy Biscayne Boulevard. For the casual visitor it's well worth a detour for the evening from the homogeneous hedonism of South Beach - in the bars here, you'll more likely rub elbows with emerging artists and writerly types than the wannabe rapper-model-actors that clog the joints beachside (a welcome change). And the Arsht Center is a magical sight after dark.

SEE & DO

The Arsht Center www.arshtcenter.org
Biscayne Boulevard between 13th &14th streets, 305-949-6722

Masterminded by architect Cesar Pelli, the enormous Arsht Center Biscayne Boulevard between 13th and 14th streets, links three performance spaces in two huge buildings straddling Biscayne Boulevard and connected by an elevated walkway. Initially lumbered with the awkward name of Carnival Center for the Performing Arts, thanks to a much-needed multi-million dollar cash injection from a local cruise giant, it's now saddled it with an equally sponsor-driven moniker in honor of the local banker-cum-philanthropist. The Carnival Symphony Hall is a 2200-seat shoebox-design space intended to maximize acoustics; the slightly larger Ziff Ballet House is devoted to opera, dance, and Broadway-style shows; and the tiny Studio Theater, with a flexible 200-seat auditorium, is available to local arts groups.

The technology within Pelli's structure is state-of-the-art, with each auditorium boasting superb soundproofing to prevent ambient noise from polluting the performance. The one old landmark here sits in the courtyard between the two structures, an octagonal, whitewashed Art Deco tower. It was the showy crenellated entrance to a huge Sears store, built in 1929, that once sat on the site; in fact, the corporation donated the land to the city expressly for this center. Arguably the best time and way to appreciate Pelli's building is by night, speeding past on the I-95 freeway, which makes the twinkling, space-age building look like a delicate alien craft that's idling quietly in the center of Miami.

The Bacardi Building www.bacardi.com.
2100 Biscayne Boulevard, 305-573-8511

Looming above Biscayne Boulevard like a gleaming robot, this is a masterpiece of Modernist architecture. Prepare to be dazzled by the "Mad Men"-esque white and blue floral murals that zigzag over its northern and southern facias - indeed, they date back to 1963, when Brazilian artist Francisco Brennand in 1963 designed and installed the individually fired ceramic tiles. The squat, square building next door was an addition to the complex ten years later; its interior walls are made almost entirely of stained glass. There's a small museum of uninteresting Bacardi rum memorabilia on the main floor, a satellite of the original in Cuba, but it's only sporadically open to the public (call the number above to check on potential access)

Miami Herald Building www.miamiherald.com
1 Herald Plaza, 305-350-2111

Like the Bacardi building, this is a modernist gem, covered in a mustardish yellow that's a throwback to the heyday of polyester slacks. It's, a fine example of the MiMo, or Miami Modernism, style, runner-up to deco as Miami's signature. The OMNI and surrounding area were developed post-war when this movement was its height, so many other buildings in the area also echo its tenets. MiMo was known for its use of sweeping lines and drama - building as theater - and its playfulness with light, as the brises soleils on this facade scissor through the sunlight.

EAT & DRINK

Heidy's Cafe
2804 NE 2nd Ave, 305-576-0331

Just at the topmost edge of the 'hood sits this terrific cafe. With a tiny kitchen and the daily menu scribbled on a whiteboard, the Honduran hole-in-the-wall shares a Wynwood storefront with the local laundry. Sit down at the counter amid the washing machines and enjoy tasty soups like black bean or crispy fried savory treats for less than $5 a portion.

Bin #18 www.bin18miami.com
1800 Biscayne Boulevard 786-235-7575

Wunderkind chef Alfredo Patiño broke out helming the kitchen at the Ritz Carlton Coconut Grove's ritzy Bizcaya restaurant; but he's now traded fine dining for this family-run casual café (his elder brother consults on the business side, while Patiño Jr's one of the waiters). It's a raw concrete space, gussied up with crystal chandelier, vintage wine barrels and a rotating selection of for-sale artwork. The menu's no less of a masterpiece: try his warm fig brûlée, grilled with blue cheese and drizzled with balsamic vinegar ($7.95), a bocadillo sandwich with manchego ($7.50) or even a gooey ribbon-like pile of fresh burrata mozzarella ($12.75).

Mike's at Venetia www.mikesvenetia.com
9th floor, 555 NE 15th St, 305-374-5371

Welcoming and divey, this Irish sports bar and restaurant has cheap martinis, a superb juke box that takes in rap, vintage country and jangle pop, a friendly staff and an out-of-the-way location (on the 9th floor of a condo complex by the Venetian Causeway) that keeps it full of regulars, especially after Wynwood gallery openings.

Out of the Blue www.outofthebluecafe.net
2426 NE 2nd Avenue 305-573-3800

The delightful owner Carmen Miranda presides over this coffee shop in a converted house, with mismatched 1960s furniture, a shady patio and emerging artists' work tacked to the walls. The menu includes sandwiches and salads (around $7), house-made soups and smoothies (from $4.25), and the usual coffee drinks. Breakfast and lunch only, closed Sunday. Free WiFi.

PS14 www.ps14.com
28 NE 14th St, Biscayne Corridor 305-358-3600,

This bar has a downtown Manhattan dive bar vibe, but is on the board of OMNI and Overtown Districts. Sit on the couches and nurse a beer or two, dance to the rockish DJs on the patio (the sound system's impressive) or play a game or two of pool; there's also live musical performances almost every weekend.

MY DETROIT VACATION by David Landsel, the Travel Editor at the New York Post

HOLA, DIEGO

Everyone has a general idea of all the things that are wrong with Detroit -- most of the things you hear are true (except for the part where people joke about needing flak jackets to visit.) The truth is, nearly every city in America hides (or doesn't hide) a little or a lot of what you find here in Detroit. Not all of these cities have murals by Diego Rivera in their art museum. Painted in 1933, they depict the good, the bad and the ugly of Detroit's industrial heritage. Rivera Court is a focal point of the wonderful Detroit Institute of Arts, one of the best art museums you probably have never visited.

MY, THAT'S OLD

One of the things that people don't realize is how old Detroit is. And, because it has been economically depressed for so many years now, the beautiful old architectural pieces that many other cities tore down have survived. A great example is the beaux-arts/neo-classical Wayne County Building, constructed in the late 1800's. On a grey day, it looms into the mist like something out of a bad day in Budapest. Marvelous!

COLOR ME CORKTOWN

Michigan Avenue in the Corktown district features a lot of 1800's-era storefronts. Again - never got around to tearing it all down, like in so many other cities. (Land is not exactly at a premium, with more than half of the population having left the city since the 1950's.) For years, this block was boarded up and falling apart, like so many other blocks in this town. On this block you can go to a snazzy bbq joint, hit a cafe that offers latte art and organic food, or buy a condo at one of the city's lone storefront real estate offices. This area is as close as you'll come to the typical organic urban American gentrification around here. Ironically, it's across the way from one of the city's most famous abandoned structures, Michigan Central Station.

BUT IS IT ART?

There apparently used to be a slogan around here that I hear old-timers repeat now and then: Detroit: Cars, bars and a few weirdos. Pretty accurate, except that I'd amend that to a lot of weirdos. One of the weirdest Detroiters is Tyree Guyton. Years ago, he appropriated most of a decrepit east side block, and over time, it has become a monster public art installation,known as the Heidelberg Project. Outsider art before the term was invented, this is one of Detroit's top tourist attractions. (Hey - this isn't exactly Disney World, here.)

TAKE A SHOWER

Detroit is a border town -- it sits on the north side of the Detroit River, facing the city of Windsor, Ontario. On the riverfront, where a beautiful promenade is currently coming online in fits and starts, you'll find Hart Plaza. This has traditionally been the public square of the city, and while it is mostly concrete-ish and horrendous, it does have, as a focal point, Isamu Noguchi's 1970's Dodge Fountain. The world's largest shower head (can't actually confirm that) sits in the shadow of Minoru Yamasaki's One Woodward Avenue, which looks alarmingly similar to the architect's infamous World Trade Center, which Yamasaki would design about a decade later.

MORE FOUNTAINS? WHY NOT?

As much as the city can be a complete horror show, it's easy to see just how wealthy Detroit once was - in fact, the wealthiest city in America, during its time. Grand boulevards, magnificent mansions (many of them available for a song - security not included!) and lovely parks. Belle Isle is Detroit's centerpiece, park-wise: Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted of Central Park fame, this island in the Detroit River is like an amusement park for nature lovers, with many different environments, views, quiet spaces and architecture to admire. Cass Gilbert built this marble fountain in 1925 at the behest of wealthy ne'er-do-well about town, James Scott. Some idiot stole the copper for scrap a while back - thankfully, things are back to normal now.

SECRET GARDENS

With all that empty land, might as well garden, right? One of the city's oldest soup kitchens, run by the Capuchin order, has its own "farm," a sprawling garden off of Mt. Elliott Street on the city's east side. You never know who you'll meet when you drop by - in season, there's usually someone composting or weeding or showing folks how gardens work. It's all kind of back to the land and nifty, particularly since here, you're only a minute or two out of downtown.

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

It isn't in any tourist brochures, but the Eastern Market is one of the best public markets in the United States, hands down. This historic district just steps from the flashy new downtown stadiums is interesting any time, but is best visited on Saturday mornings, when loads of people turn out and give you a sense of just how diverse and interesting the depressingly segregated Metro Detroit region actually is. With the whole garden thing happening, a Grown in Detroit cooperative of sorts has formed, selling their produce in season in one of the market's handful of covered sheds.

THIS IS NEW FRANCE, AFTER ALL

New Orleans grabbed on to its French heritage and never let go; Detroit's French connection is mostly observed via street signs (Gratiot, Beaubien, Riopelle, Rivard) and read about in history books. Former French teacher Torya Blanchard is doing her bit to bring joie de vivre back to the city via her downtown crepe stand. Good Girls Go To Paris. The wee-hours incongruity of tweaked-out club kids stumbling down from the Bleu Room for nutella crepes, served up by someone in a maid's outfit, is one of those only-in-Detroit experiences that remind you that while you may be in the Midwest geographically, this is not the Midwest at all.

SUITABLE ACCOMMODATIONS

Many people ask me, "but where do you stay?" In a hotel, of course. My current favorite is the Book Cadillac. Now a Westin, this was the tallest building in Detroit when it went up in the 20's. Once almost Plaza-like in the sense that it was a huge part of Detroit's identity, it was abandoned for more than twenty years. A whopping $180 million later, the old girl is back in business. It's a classy joint, but this is still Detroit -- the reborn Motor Bar (a famous gathering place in years gone by) now offers, on tap, the city's best microbrew: Ghettoblaster Ale.

10 Reasons to Go To Pensacola

There was a time -- before tanning butlers and 20-story mega-resort complexes -- when Florida was the sort of place where you could roll up to the beach right in your pick-up, spend the day frolicking in transparent turquoise waves and sugar-white sand and then head off to the local roadside shack for a hearty fish sandwich and an ice-cold beer. Thankfully, this sort of destination still exists. Tucked into the western corner of the Florida panhandle, just shouting distance from the border with Alabama, is Pensacola, a small seaside community that is a little bit country and little bit rock 'n roll. This 450-year-old city, which has been administered at various points in history by the Spanish, the French, the British, the Confederacy and the U.S., offers up vintage forts for exploring, protected seashore for kayaking, and plenty of beachside accommodations -- all at a fraction of the price (and a fraction of the traffic) of southern Florida destinations like Miami.

The best part: it's all served up with a heaping dose of Southern charm. A round-up of our favorite spots:

Best time to go to Pensacola: May through August, but September is nicest if you like to avoid crowds.

1. The Paradise Inn

Situated right smack on the bay in Pensacola Beach, this vintage waterside motel not only offers newly-remodeled rooms with contemporary decor, firm mattresses, AC, internet and a swimming pool, it has one of the best bar scenes in town -- at the on-site Paradise Bar & Grill. Here you can sip on a cold one while catching live music and spectacular water views. Tired of looking at the bay? Cross the street and you'll be right on the beach -- an uncrowded array of undulating dunes made of dazzling crystal quartz sand.
850/932-2319; 21 Via de Luna Dr., Pensacola Beach; doubles from $90.
http://www.paradiseinn-pb.com

2. Peg Leg Pete's

There are oysters and there are oysters. And Peg Leg Pete's shucks only the finest bivalves in the state -- drawn from the clear waters of nearby Apalachicola. Even if you're a raw oyster purist, don't miss an opportunity to try their Spicy Lafittes: oysters doused with cheddar, bacon and jalapenos, quickly broiled and served with drawn butter. These sublime, artery-clogging treats are worth the price of airfare alone.
850/932-4139; 1010 Fort Pickens Rd., Pensacola Beach; raw oysters from $7.95/dozen.
http://www.peglegpetes.com

3. Key Sailing

Kayaking, sunset cruises, snorkeling excursions, waverunner and Hobie CAT rentals are what you'll find at this reliable, long-time outfitter run by blue-eyed charmer and Pensacola native Captain Kirk Newkirk. Looking for an adrenaline rush? Then sign up for a parasailing excursion, and glide more than 1,000 feet over the turquoise waters of the beach and bay.
850/932-5520; 500 Quietwater Blvd., Pensacola Blvd.
http://www.keysailing.com

4. The Sandshaker Lounge

This down-home drinking hole is equal parts honky-tonk and beachside party spot, known for its legendary nine-hour happy hours (which runs from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.) and the spectacular array of local color that can be found bellied up to the small, interior bar. In the summer, the expansive outdoor decks get packed with vacationers sipping on the lounge's signature drink, the Bushwacker, a frozen, highly-intoxicating blend of Kahlua, rum, coconut and milk (among a variety of other secret ingredients). It's a grown-up milkshake of the dreamiest kind; just don't let the sweet taste fool you -- these seemingly-innocent cocktails pack a punch.
850/932-2211; 731 Pensacola Beach Blvd., Pensacola Beach, drinks from $4.
http://www.sandshakerlounge.com

5. Fort Pickens

Protected within the confines of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, this historic fort, which dates back to 1834, once guarded the entrance to Pensacola's harbor and was the site of some storied Civil War skirmishes. (Some of the first shots in the war were allegedly fired here.) In addition, the famous Apache military strategist Geronimo was imprisoned here from 1886 to 1887 (after outwitting the U.S. army for years). Visitors can explore the old cells and munitions chambers -- including the room that was rumored to have contained the infamous Geronimo. Pack a swimsuit and you can follow up your hike with a dip in the area's crystalline waters.
850/934-2600; Santa Rosa Island; admission $3.
http://www.pensacolasgreatest.com/FortPickens.html
http://www.nps.gov/guis/index.htm

6. Surf Burger

All that hiking and kayaking and swimming builds up and appetite. When you're feeling ravenous, head to this popular second-story burger joint run by two surfers named Mike and Dave. This is THE spot in Pensacola to pick up a juicy 1/3 lb. burger with all the fixings, as well as a basket of hand-cut fries. (No bags of frozen potatoes here.) What to wash it all down with? One of Surf Burger's legendary super-thick shakes.
850/932-1417; 500 Quietwater Beach Blvd., Pensacola Beach; burgers from $7.75.
http://thesurfburger.com

7. The Fish House

The best sunset and moonrise views in Pensacola can be found on the outdoor terrace of this bustling dockside establishment in the city of Pensacola proper. Night after night, locals and tourists alike pour in for the restaurant's excellent fresh seafood (don't miss the crab claws sauteed in garlic) and the voluminous house specialty: Chef Jim Shirley's Grits a Ya Ya, a cheesy mountain of hominy grits stacked with bacon and seared shrimp -- each order is so big it could easily serve four.
850/470-0003; 600 S. Barracks St., Pensacola, grits $19.95.
http://fishhouse.goodgrits.com

8. Paradise Beach Homes

http://www.paradisebeachhomes.com

If you can get a six-pack of friends together, avoid the expense of a hotel altogether by renting one of the sprawling beach homes located east of Pensacola Beach's main drag. Units -- many of which are right on the water -- come stocked with full kitchens, BBQs and ample terraces for lounging. If you reserve ahead, you can even have beach cruisers and groceries waiting upon your arrival.
850/916-0777; 27 Via de Luna Dr., Pensacola Beach.

9. Downtown Pensacola

Once you've had enough beach and are ready for a taste of culture, head into Pensacola's historic downtown, where narrow streets lined with vintage structures evoke the charm of French New Orleans. Here, the Pensacola Museum of Art stages art exhibitions in a building that once served as the town's jail (note the bars that still protect some of the galleries). On Palafox Place, the main drag, the Saenger Theatre, a Spanish baroque-style show palace that dates back to the 1920s, stands resplendent after a recent top-to-bottom makeover. And, across the street, at the Global Grill, in-the-know locals dip into a wide array of Cajun-meets-the-Mediterranean tapas prepared by the personable chef, Frank Taylor. (Don't miss his New Orleans-style BBQ shrimp in butter sauce.)
Pensacola Museum of Art: 850/432-6247; 407 S. Jefferson St.; admission $5.
http://www.pensacolamuseumofart.org
Saenger Theatre: 850/595-3850; 118 S. Palafox Place.
http://www.pensacolasaenger.com
Global Grill: 850/469-9966; 27 S. Palafox Place; tapas $3-14.
http://www.dineglobalgrill.com

10. The Mullet Toss

If there's one reason to make the journey to this corner of the state, it's to visit the Flora-Bama bar for the annual mullet toss competition, now in its 25th year. Every April, without fail, hundreds of devoted mullet tossers (as in the fish, not the haircut) arrive at this ramshackle bar that sits right on the Florida-Alabama state line on Perdido Key to throw freshly caught mullet as deeply into Alabama as they possibly can. (In '09, one participant managed to toss his mullet a whopping 198 feet.) The rest of the year, this is a great spot to kick back a cold one while taking in the views of the broad, white-sand beach.
850/492-4611; 17401 Perdido Key Dr., Pensacola.
http://www.florabama.com