SCRAMBLED EGG SANDWICH [5.10 (Med-Wide Gear) / V2 ER10]
Initially sent as a boulder problem, this “killer” problem is the strikingly obvious crack situated on the west overhanging face of the Kingdom Boulder (facing the Kingdom of Zilch areas). A wonderful alcove is formed below the line where the Kingdom boulder is perched on the ripple of the dome. You can always seek shelter from the sun here, or enjoy a picnic, or read a book. Whatever you do, this is a pleasant place to be, although, being in shouting distance from the parking lot can make for a not so peaceful experience always. This is not a very long line but it offers solid rock, one of the shortest approaches in the park, easy access to the top. For these reasons Scrambled Egg Sandwich is an uber-classic.
THE TRAPEZIUM [V6 ER3] The Trapezium is the dense cluster of stars in the Orion Nebula which are surrounded by a vast star & planetary forming region. It's also a sweet reference to the Trapeze like movements. For ~ 6 footers and taller, stand start on the angled tree trunk, reaching a large slightly slopey left and a slightly more slopey right crimp. For shortens, receive a helping hand, or knee or back, to reach the starting holds. Either way, pull on and make a hard cross to a slotted crimp. Lock off to gain the better crimp jug and finish with a miraculously huge jug. Swing your feet around to the wall behind you (the wrinkle in the dome) and gracefully complete your efforts by achieving stadium seating above. Or... you can gaze up to the two other possible exit extensions (be smart... think harness!). By far the most gentle holds in the park!!! Especially for the grade. Who knew such dynamics were permitted in the park?!
PROJECT “BELLATRIX” [V7? ER10]
Standing below Scrambled Egg Sandwich you will see a horizontal break in the boulder. Currently, the problem starts standing on the tree in order to reach the first ledge. Campus on and make the few moves to the wonderfully kind jug which allows you to swing you feet over to the wrinkle in the dome. From here finish up Scrambled Egg Sandwich. I suggest doing this line on rope. Even though, I think of this line more as a boulder problem than a route and so have estimated the V7 grade based on the difficulty of the moves down low. While Bellatrix is known in the Harry Potter series as the evil witch who killed Sirius Black, Bellatrix is also one of the brighter stars in the constellation Orion and makes up the shoulder of his bow wielding arm.
PROJECT “SIRIUS” [V6? ER4]
Climb the same as Bellatrix but head out left to end up on Don’t Void Your Pants around the corner via the undercling rail. Placing protection in the crack is a smart choice. Sirius is also a Harry Potter character but more than that is known as the brightest star in the northern hemisphere in the constellation Canis Major (the dog). It is a mere 8.6 lightyears distant and shines at an apparent magnitude of -1.45.
DON’T VOID YOUR PANTS [V1 ER3] On the right side of the Kingdom boulder’s North face is this pleasant line.
NULL & VOID [V1 ER3]
A little right of center on the North face is what can best be described as a nipple a little above eye level. You know what to do.
ZILCHLESSNESS [V0 ER3]
Climb the left face that looks like it has a few scoops taken out of it. A very nice warm up.
WAY BELOW ZERO [V2 ER3] Situated between the rotten downclimb crack and Zilchlessness is this narrow band that starts over the tree growing out from the base of the boulder.
GRODIE CRACK [V0- ER2] I think the only reason this downclimb has been given a name is simply because people probably kept mentioning how grodie it is. It is beyond me why anyone would actually want to climb this and feel good for having done so. This is the downclimb for all problems on this boulder.
FATMAN IN PARADISE [V1 ER2] Not the highest quality rock in the area. Slap both aretes to the pinnacle. Starts on disheartening rock quality.