She has the same old-world charm as Savannah.   She parties hard that puts Rio de Janeiro to shame.  She has a similar palpable sense of energy as Buenos Aires.  She exudes a certain exoticism that can be compared to that of Istanbul. She has the most pleasant people reminiscent of Barcelona.  Let me introduce her.   Cartagena, Colombia.

Just got back this morning and can’t wait to post this entry immediately so I won’t miss a bit.   My internet research described it as a “colonial, Caribbean coastal city”.   After being there, that statement can’t even begin to capture her essence. It’s so much more.  It’s like stepping back in time and sometimes feels like I was on a set of a Telenovela. It’s considered to be the best preserved colonial city in the entire Western Hemisphere.  Some of you might have not heard about Cartagena before this but it’s been on my radar the past 2 years.   When the prices finally dropped, I pounced on it.   And so glad that I did. Colombia is one of those countries that has a bad international reputation but with its cocaine days in the past, I was not at all scared to try and sample this diverse country.   It didn’t disappoint.   It’s easy to dismiss a place just because of hearsay but until you’ve experienced it, you have no idea.   Having lived in the Philippines most of my life, I know how bad publicity can skew outsiders’ perceptions. Philippines has been portrayed negatively on international stage but it is worse in the news than what it truly is.  

Left NYC near midnight last Wednesday to Bogota.   I waited for nearly 3 hours to get my connection to Cartagena, which is another hour flight.   With the altitude and lack of sleep, I was having a hard time breathing at the Bogota airport.  Arrived in Cartagena around 10 am on Thurday.  Upon landing, my first impression of its airport is like Maui –  located near the water.  My taxi driver to the hotel reminded me of our “lolos” back home.   He got lost inside the Centro Historico and can’t find my hotel.  Apparently, even taxi drivers are confused by the narrow streets.   This was just the minor hiccup of the entire trip.  At least it provided me with a “free tour” of the city.  Once we entered the “walled city”, my jaw just dropped.  It was completely and utterly amazing.  The sight of colorful facades of Spanish colonial buildings delicately preserved contrasting against the cloudless, blue sky is just spectacular. I was equally impressed with the B&B I stayed in as well.  It’s the Alfiz Hotel and it is a 17th century colonial house located in the city center.  The location is perfect and truly enjoyed my stay there.  I had the “pirate” room.  The entire hotel has only 7 huge rooms so it doesn’t feel crowded.  I felt like I had my own colonial house in Cartagena.  The service was also excellent with fresh drinks when you get in plus custom cooked breakfast depending on your likings.   I highly recommend this place.

After resting up a bit,  I started my first day in Cartagena with what I do best – eat.    I walked outside the walled city to try a traditional Colombian restaurant – La Cocina de Socorro.   I tell you, I couldn’t be happier.   I tried the fried red snapper with coconut rice and patacon (plantains smashed and fried into patties).  I also tried their fish soup.  I washed all this down with Limonada de coco (limes with coconut). Slurped to the last drop. I tried Cartagena’s favorite drink as well – agua de panela.  They take a piece of the beehive, pour hot water.  Honey heaven, indeed.    I then started to explore the city by foot.   It was a warm 88 degrees that day but the breeze from the Caribbean Sea made it more bearable.   As I walked down streets just wide enough to fit one of the city’s ubiquitous horse-drawn carriages, I can’t help but be grateful how lucky I am to be experiencing one of the world’s most unique cities.   Hence, it’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Amidst the endless rows of well-preserved colonial houses, you can’t help but notice as well old men push creaky cart laden with halved coconuts and corn pancakes, while teenagers carry carpenters’ boxes packed not with tools but with thermoses.  They’re selling a quintessential Cartagenan drink known as tinto, a Dixie-cup-size shot of coffee.   After hours of wandering the streets and admiring impressive plazas, I found myself near the 400-year-old stone walls encircling the city.   It was so intact.   There are even cafés and bars on some of the walls’ baluartes.    I had a sip of their famous pina colada while watching the sunset.  It was like a dream.   Later that night, I hailed one of the horse drawn carriages where the coachman points out the sites in Spanish, to which I alternately answered “Si”/ “Si,claro” to everything he says even if it probably doesn’t apply.   As I hopped down from the carriage tour at the Plaza de las Coches, a sudden loud explosion.  Lights went out.  I got scared for an instant but as soon as I heard laughter from the locals at the plaza, I calmed down a bit.  Apparently, the electric fuse exploded but the lights came back in no time.   One of the female vendors was laughing at me when she saw the scared expression painted over my face.   After I had dinner around 10 pm, I decided to call it a night.  As I walked to my hotel, I passed by another plaza where they were having an impromptu beauty pageant on one side, and street performers gyrating to the beat of the drums on one end. Cartagena is definitely wild but civilized.

I started my second day by climbing the massive Castillo de San Felipe.  It’s a huge fort built over 17th and 18th centuries by the Spanish.   It overlooks the city and provides magnificent views.  You can also explore hidden tunnels within the castle.  Next stop, was “La Popa”.   The highest point in Cartagena.  It has very impressive views and the convent is also located in this place.  Since these places have quite a distance between them, I hailed a cab and they are so cheap here.  15 minute ride will cost you only about $3.  Another reason why Colombia should be on your list of next destination. All that sightseeing made me hungry.  I randomly picked a restaurant full of locals.   As I entered, I can see that all the customers are Colombians and no tourists.   I didn’t feel like an outcast.  Once the owner learned I can’t speak Spanish, he still managed to make me feel welcome and comfortable.  He suggested Carne Asada which I truly enjoyed.   After lunch, I spent the entire afternoon snapping photos as much as I can.   Went back to the hotel and took a nap to recharge myself for the nightlife.   Cartagenans eat dinner late.   I went to San Pedro, a more upscale restaurant, and enjoyed the fish and shrimp cocktails there as well.   A Colombian celebrity (no idea who he was) was having dinner at the same time I was there and basing on the reactions from the staff and some customers, I think he was a big deal.    Around midnight, I took a cab to Café  Havana.  It’s located on a grittier but lively area of Getsemani. As I entered the bar, I feel like I could have easily been in Cuba.  Photos of Cuban musicians displayed on the walls, couples are cuddling all around, and the place is packed.   As I just ordered my first mojito, the band started playing the first song of the set and I got chills. It was so authentic, effortless and unpretentious.  People just come here to enjoy and not do the “seen and be-seen crap”.   After the first song, I heard police sirens outside and instantaneously police started entering the place.   Is this a raid?  Que horror!!!   One of the police took the stage and started making an announcement in Spanish (duh!).   Didn’t understand a word.  People became quiet as more police started to make their way inside the bar.   I immediately asked the guy standing next to me at the bar.  Sidenote: He is soo cute (ala the guy from the show “Privilege” on CW).   He is from Bogota but originally from Caracas, Venezuela.   He speaks English.   He explained that it is the new law now in Colombia to have the police randomly inspects people at bars if they have weapons with them.    He said this is routine so nothing to worry about.  That bewildered expression is probably evident on my face again.  We exchanged digits and info and stuff and I thought we were having a “moment” and then suddenly... “Guantanamera”  happened.   The band started playing the song, and all the people at the bar but me got off their feet and dancing madness soon ensued.  Including Bogotan hottie… and yes he was dancing with a mujer…..  and yes… I thought the song is “Juan Tanamera….bihira…Juan Tanamera” … but is actually Guantanamera Guajira Guantanamera.   To drown my sorrow, I got another mojito and “Aguila”, the Colombian national cerveza.    Then the slow music started and my peripheral view (ok..fine, I was staring) saw Mr. B making “kiskis” like he was itching.  That’s it, I had to leave out of there.   But he said goodbye.  Fine, it’s definitely Tasya Fantasya.  

On my third day, I took it easy.  Had a late breakfast and just meandered my way to check out the sights again.    I spent most of it sitting at the Plaza Bolivar just people watching.  And to prove I’m not Tasya, I heard a man calling my name while I was snapping photos and there he was Mr. Bogota himself.  We chit-chat a bit and he said that he might visit NY this April and hopefully we can keep in touch.   I’m not holding my breath on that, but “kilig” nonetheless.  Later that afternoon, I rushed back to the airport to catch my flight to New York via Bogota.

After experiencing Cartagena, albeit short, I’m glad I went.   This trip will go down as one my most memorable ever. This place exceeded all my expectations and more.   If you’ve never considered visiting Colombia at all, try adding it to your list.   All the negative stuff we heard about Colombia are now nothing but myths.    During this trip, I even felt safer than in New York (i.e. NYPD Blues).  Colombia’s  slogan reads:  The only risk in Colombia is wanting to stay!    That is not an exaggeration.  I truly believe that.   If I can’t stay, hope I can go back....soon!

CHECK OUT MY PHOTOS HERE!!!