Angel Food Cake Science based Rituals...
 
Rituals are so much a part of families, cooking and eating.  Sometimes when we’re growing up with them, rituals seem like a real hinderance, sometimes a downright embarrassment.  We all  remember something that we grew up thinking was the absolute gospel truth about the way to do something.  It might be something simple like: wash your hands before sitting down to eat.  We’ve all believed something and found out that there was little or no truth in it.  My mom always told me never to store potatoes in the refrigerator because it would ruin them.  Then I find in Cook’s Illustrated that if I store my potatoes to use for hash browns in the refrigerator, they’ll brown better because the cold will cause sugar to form in the potato and sugar browns more easily than the potato starch.
 
After I did my post on Angel Food Cake, I thought maybe it would be interesting to read up on the science behind some of that childhood ritual I remembered when Dad would bake an Angel Food Cake.  What was based in science and what was just mumbo jumbo?  The read up turned out to be a lot of reading and long hunts looking for some of my cookbooks I’d packed up while the kitchen is under repair.
 
I first turned to the internet and turned up two good, short pieces here and here.  The search for the history of Angel Food Cake turned up some very interesting articles here and here.  
 
After some hunting, I found myself and my desk buried.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Be aware when I label an Angel Food Cake a “good basic recipe” that means it has all the six elements of the classic Angel Food Cake recipe. Unless noted, all my sources had a good basic recipe for the cake.   Here’s the list of my books I finally looked through and used:
 
The Gourmet Cookbook Edited by Ruth Reichl  Only discussed how the age of the eggs used influenced the final product.
Classic Home Desserts by Richard Sax
Baking in America:Traditional and Contemporary Favorites from the Past 200 Years by Greg Patent  Some interesting history on the tube cake pan and a very unique method of baking this cake.
Baking Illustrated by the Editors of Cook’s Illustrated Excellent in depth information and interesting notes on best temperature at which to bake the cake.
The New Best Recipe by the Editors of Cook’s Illustrated   Same information/discussion as Baking Illustrated above.
The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook by Editors of America’s Test Kitchen  This had the best pictures of soft vs. stiff peaks p 643.
CookWise by Shirley O. Corriher  In depth discussion of egg whites; no recipe for Angel Food Cake.
On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee  First & Second Editions had some different in depth information; no recipe for Angel Food Cake. Has latest science on copper bowl effects.
I’m Just Here For More Food by Alton Brown Easy to follow explanations, excellent illustrations.  Gives recipe for Spiced Angel Food Cake.  Now, I’m a firm believer in “variety is the spice of life” but I feel pretty strongly that “plain” Angel Food Cake is really perfect.  But, I do like peppermint Angel Food Cake.  Maybe I’d really flip for the spice also.  Haven’t tried it.
The American Century Cookbook: the Most Popular Recipes of the 20th Century by Jean Anderson  I like this book because she usually has interesting stories about the history of recipes but in this case the Angel Food Cake appeared earlier and so is not found here.
 
I thought that my Dad had created a lot of ritual surrounding baking Angel Food Cakes.  My reading put science to ritual!  This does begin to look like Advanced Rocket Science.
 
Here’s what I learned about Angel Food Cakes as I relate science to ingredients and techniques:
 
There are six ingredients in this cake: egg whites, cake flour, sugar, cream of tartar, salt and vanilla/almond extract.  Any thing more than that is suspect.
 
  Looking at recipes in the above sources, my next cake will change my recipe to the following:
 
1/2 c unbleached cake/pastry flour
1/2 c whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 c sugar (not using powdered, confectioner’s)
1/4 t salt                      Sift these ingredients at least twice.
 
The science:
  1.  Cake flour has less gluten than all purpose and much less than bread flour.  Less gluten will produce a lighter, higher and more tender crumb.  Sifting introduces air and air is what keeps this cake light and high.  Sorry, if I were a purist I would use all unbleached cake flour, the whole wheat is a small nod to the healthy whole grain.  
  2.  Salt added to whites increases the time to whip and destabilizes the foam but is necessary for flavor development.  Timing again is important but also what to add it to; McGee recommends adding salt to something other than the egg white foam.  With this cake, add the salt to the flour.
  3.  I will be sifting both flours.
 
1.5 c egg whites (I usually just use 14 eggs, haven’t measured this, I will next time for reference)                
1.5 t cream of tartar      
The enemies of this cake are: egg yolks, fat and detergent and these create the following rituals:
  1. wash your hands twice and rinse very well
  2. wash the bowls, spoons, spatulas and whisk/beaters very carefully and triple rinse them
  3.  Triple bowl technique to separate eggs (Brown’ book has excellent illustration).
If you want to make this rocket science here’s what you need to know:
  1. Stress of whipping whites distorts protein bonds and allows them to form a network to support the foam - these bonds can be reinforced by some techniques and weakened by the same ones - this is a delicate balancing act.
  2. Using a copper bowl really does change everything (Corriher and McGee).  It doesn’t change the initial volume of beating the egg whites but it doubles the height of the final baked product! Both copper and silver block sulfur reactions between proteins and result in a much more stable and forgiving foam!  A very good thing.  Perhaps equally as impressive is it prevents loss of water that leads to lumping and premature stiffening of the bonds - then baking heat won’t bring on a high rise in the oven.
  3. Cream of tartar is an acid and has something of the same effect of the copper bowl - it creates a much more stable foam by slowing the sulfur bonding to a crawl (2nd Ed McGee).
  4. Mixer speed: All sources suggest starting the whites at a low speed.  When a good froth is formed still with some large bubbles, add the cream of tartar.
    
1 c sugar
  1. Sugar has the double effect of building and destroying foam formation.  Timing is off the essence with this ingredient.  Sugar greatly enhances foam’s stability but makes it harder (takes longer) to whip up volume.  If your whipping by hand that means a lot of energy; with a Kitchen Aid it means very little.  The proper time to add sugar is earlier rather than late.  The proper time is when you have a good froth worked up with some big bubbles and add it slowly, some recommend a tablespoon at a time.
  2. From slow speed with good froth in the bowl and cream of tartar added, increase the speed to medium and begin adding the sugar.  When all the sugar has been added, the speed can be increased to high until soft peaks just short of stiff peaks are formed.
  3. Peaks - for the best discussion of glossy soft peaks vs. stiff peaks you should read McGee 2nd Ed. for the best illustration you should look at Brown’s book.
 
1.5 t vanilla
1/2 t almond extract
  1.  The last ingredients are folded in gently.   Add the extract(s).  Add the flour slowly several tablespoons at a time using a folding motion, lifting up being careful to deflate the whites as little as possible.  Now, would be a great time to have a helper sifting the flour over the bowl as you fold it into the whites.  Sifting the flour over the whites will result in the fewest lumps in the batter.  Aim for the lowest number of folding movements as possible, leaving a lump or two so as not to over do and deflate the batter.
  2.  Water - I didn’t find any recipe that had water as an ingredient for this cake although I seem to remember my dad adding a tablespoon of water but he’s in England right now and I can’t ask him.  Several sources indicated that a small amount (a tablespoon) will increase the resulting volume as much as adding another egg white but does tend to make the foam soft.
  3. Use a two piece tube pan, ideally with feet so that it will invert on its own.  If it lacks feet use a bottle to invert it upon.  Never use oil or fat of any kind in this pan. Do not use a non-stick pan.
  4. I’ve had excellent results baking this at 375° for 30 to 35 minutes but I will try the Cook’s Illustrated suggestion to bake at 325° to compare.
  5.  Inverting the cake hot from the oven prevents it falling back on itself like a souffle does, causes stretching and results in the highest possible cake.
  6. To remove the cake from the tube pan WAIT until it is absolutely COLD.  Use a knife to cut it loose from around the side and the center tube.  Lift the tube and the cake should easily come out.  Use the knife around the bottom to cut the cake free.  Invert onto cake plate.
 
So, how did this cake come about.  The history is a little like the lightness of this cake.
 
The ability to whip egg whites into foam has always been present.  Before the 17th century about the only “tools” to froth egg whites were twigs and sponges (McGee) the fork was still a novelty.  Souffles and meringues started appearing in cookbooks sometime after 1650.  Rotary egg beaters where first patented in 1865 and revolutionized whipping egg whites. My sources concur that this cake originated in American most likely by the Pennsylvania Dutch.  The earliest cookbook with a recipe for Angel Food Cake using no fat seems to be a 1884 edition entitled The Boston Cooking School Cookbook by Mrs D. A. Lincoln.  For more historical details see Linda Stradley and this.  
 
The most unusual suggestions I found were
  1. A suggestion at this site to start the cake in a cold oven.  No explanation was given as to why and I’ve never done it that way.
  2.  Patent bakes this at 475° for 10 minutes with the pan covered tightly with heavy-duty foil.  Opens the oven door, removes the foil.  Reduces the heat to 425° and bakes the cake another 15 minutes.  Cools it inverted. I don’t know if I’m going to try that one.
 
Whee, that was really long.
 
Now, all the science and ritual being said and done.  Remember my last post.  You don’t really have to be perfect every time in every way to have a really beautiful and scrumptious tasting cake.
I wish you all great and high Angle Food Cakes.
 
Science Around My Pound...
Friday, May 26, 2006
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