Tuesday, February 6, 2007
2005 Wildman tasting in the city
An exceptional tasting on this day at the Clift Hotel as the Wildman tasting included many if not all of the principals; Nicolas Potel; Eric Rousseau; Christian Moreau; Nadine Gublins & Martin Prieur (Jacques Prieur); Franck Grux (Olivier Leflaive); Antoine Vincent (Chateau Fuisse, Vincent Selections); Stephane Aviron (Potel - Aviron); Amaury de Villard (Domaine des Perdrix, Chateau de Chamirey), Emmanuel Humbert, Pierre Damoy, Didier Darviot (Darviot-Perrin); Michael Stephens (Vins Divins)
In the picture above, left to right, Nicolas Potel pours, Mel Knox, barrel broker, Raj Parr, top sommelier, Stéphane Vivier, winemaker for HdV and I think Robbie Meyer enjoying wine. Everyone has come to taste the 2005 vintage and everyone should have been very happy.
I began with the whites...
The Chablis wines began a trend in the lineup of efforts from this negoicant, the “Deux Rives” was pleasant, the 1er Cru Fourchaume is a buy. The village Chassagne and Puligny are wines are good but not special, they could have come from 2004, the 1er Cru wines the ones to buy and the ones that offer what is special about the vintage. Oddly, the Corton Grand Cru was offered after the 2005 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru. I tasted the Olivier Leflaive Corton but I have nothing to say about it because the 2005 Batard Montrachet has a 60 second finish. ( Watch two bad commercials on tv, its a long time isn’t it).
The whites of Domaine Darviot-Perrin were impressive. The Lieu-dit, “Clos de la Velle” is the first Meursault I taste that captures the essence of the village. The top wine from the producer, a Chassagne-Montrachet from the highly sought after site of Blanchots-Dessus, situated just below the Grand Cru Montachet vineyard. I asked Didier Darviot how many houses sourced fruit from the vineyard, he said six. As good as the wine is and it is very good indeed, but it is a 1er Cru and $300. a case more expensive than the Grand Cru Batard from O. Leflaive.
The Meursault from Domaine Jacques Prieur was more about body, the wine had the proper hint of hazelnut, but lacked the acidity and tension I was expecting. The 1er Cru Puligny-Montrachet offered the clarity and vibrant mouthfeel I was looking for, but there was a hint of baby aspirin, citric acid, that I more commonly find in some champagnes. Still its a purchase, Price becomes an issue with the Prieur 2005 Le Montrachet is offered at over $500 a bottle.
I will pass on the opportunity to comment on Chateau Fuisse or Domaine Christian Moreau
I choose not to taste the Beaujolais from Potel-Aviron.
MORE TO COME
The reds will be discussed tomorrow
