Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Mystery Wine--Stags’ Leap Viognier
Most of the guesses of the day focused on Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc with one or two Chardonnay comments. The wine misled the team because it had more citrus notes, less floral tones than one would expect and quite a bit of acidity. Some stone fruit characteristics were evident, a whiff of peach, and some tropical fruit, a little guava, but no dried apricot, no pineapple no honeysuckle. The dry finish felt crisp, like a squeeze lemon in a cocktail. I can’t fault the players when the wine is not a classical California Viognier. I believe the wine may have been acidified. As I asked about the varietal at the staff table, people had very different ideas of what Viognier is and should taste like, so I wandered around the web and found some prizes.
Probably the main attraction of Viognier is its potentially powerful, rich, and complex aroma that often seems like overripe apricots mixed with orange blossoms or acacia. With as distinctive and sweet an aroma-flavor profile as Gewürztraminer, Viognier is nevertheless usually made in a dry style and seems to appeal more to the typical Chardonnay drinker. The distinctive Viognier perfume holds up even when blended with a large portion of other grapes. The fruit usually has very deep color, but is somewhat low in acidity. As California wineries experiment with Viognier-Chardonnays, Viognier-Chenin Blancs, and Viognier-Colombards, this may be the grape's ultimate destiny, as a blender.
Ah yes the popular Viognier-Colombard blend.
Ms. Viognier is arguably the most en-vogue white varietal tease show in California today. But less than a decade ago her only performances were in the small Northern Rhone appellations of Condrieu and Chateau Grillet. In broad-minded France, her act was always regarded as a stunning performance worthy of the top entertainment dollar. Unquestionably intoxicating in her beauty, Ms Viognier's frame isn’t weighty but, rather, seductively full in all the right places. She charms in floral dresses, a lively glow about her, and appears innocent and sweet to those who only know her by the scent of her perfume.
This commentary is accompanied by a drawing of a belly dancer. Repeat. This commentary is accompanied by a drawing of a belly dancer. Now Rinse. A I dream of Jeannie belly dancer. If your audience falling asleep during your wine lectures, try cartoons and fairy tales.
There is one fine Viognier web site. Tablas Creek.
I would recommend their Viognier as well.
I tried the 2007 Stags’ Leap Chardonnay recently as well and it is a dry clean style of wine, 30% new oak with lees contact and no evident ml. It a fine value in a Chardonnay and I like the restraint, I like the acidity. You can sense the same winemaking philosophy in both wines. In the Viognier, however, I wonder if the very dry style of wine they make will lose some fans of the varietal who want more rich floral flavors.
