Lama Tsang Tsing reserved a room in Gangtok for us and sent his lovely niece Sonam to guide us to Rumtek. The main monastery was deserted and after wandering about we found everyone gathered at the old monastery where the Lamas were dancing.
Rumtek - Seat of His Holiness Karmapa
Lama Tsang Tseng had arranged for us to stay at the lovely Hotel Tibet
His niece Sonam was a wonderful guide and companion.
The security at Rumtek was fierce. This first gate had soldiers and we were required to register and show our passports.
Entering the main gate we encountered more soldiers.
We had to walk through this metal detector. The current Karmapa has not been allowed to enter these grounds because of political problems
On the wall, Tsurpu, the Tibetan Seat of His Holiness the Karmapa.
Looking back at the gate can you see the concrete standard. We joined some children and young monks attempting to flick a coin onto the top and have it stay.
This Indian family was visiting, we gave the children some coins and one of the boys managed to get a coin to stay. So did Prema.
This young monk offered to guide us. He was so helpful.
The murals and paintings in Rumtek are exceptional.
There is a great sense of power here.
We asked to see the Tara Shrine.....21 Tara Statues line the walls
We were guided to visit the Nalanda Institute of Higher Learning. These stairs also lead to the stupa of the 16th Karmapa’s ashes. A very powerful spot.
Then we joined the locals headed for the old monastery. When the Karmapa first escaped from Tibet he resided in the “old” monastery. Then he built the new complex.
Here there was no security and all the locals were gathered for the dance of the Protectors.
In the center of the field an elaborate structure.
The protectors are impressive in their brocade robes and wooden carved masks
This is part of the ritual of Mahakala, a practice that goes on for a number of days. The dancing is part of the sadhana.
The star of the show is the deer dancer. He represents the trained mind. Of all the dancers on the field he is the most animated, leaping and engaging in dramatic gestures
in front of him is the torma (dough cake) that represents the false sense of self. He and all of the protectors hack it, pierce it , destroy it.
Many involved in the ritual of the dance are very young monks
Some have more experience
The structure on the left is where the musician/chanters sat with various invited dignitaries.
Just behind the structure, this incredible view.
Before you leave, be sure to have some momos.
