Martin Walker’s Training Blog

Successful Summit

Sun, 20 Jul 2008 19:20:17 -0700

We made the summit!

What a difference between 2007 and 2008! You may have read my account of the 2007 ALA climb here, but this was an altogether different day.

Climb school: Day one is a day to refresh rope technique, crampon use and self arrest (if you or a rope member should fall). We had done this last year, but it is always good to refresh your memory - when someone yells “falling!” you do NOT want to be thinking “mmm, what do I do now?”. It was also a great day on the snow as you can see from the pictures. We got to meet two of our guides - Rob and Eric - two of the most relaxed folks you could hope to climb with. Rob was fresh from an ascent of Denali, so had his mountaineering brain dialed right in.

The evening after school we had a pep talk from Lou Whittaker, the owner and founder of RMI and a famous climber in his own right. He is in his late 70’s and has just some off a double knee replacement and is in great shape, both physically and mentally. He shared some heart warming stories about fatalities and rescues on the mountain and urged us to keep on breathing and rest-stepping. After that he signed our flags and posters, cracked a few jokes (what do you call a snowboarder without a girlfriend? Homeless), and posed for a group photo (notice how he always gets the pretty women to stand by him).

After that we went for a carb loading dinner at Alexander’s with “Team Loser”. Team Loser is myself, Richard Adams, Leslie Lauer and Lyn Robinson. We were all turned back by weather in 2007 and had trained together for this year. Chrysty Laske did not make the summit in 2005 (I think) so is also an honorary member.

Day 2 - Hike to base camp: On climb day one, we took the bus up to the new Paradise Lodge, then started out for camp Muir - named after John Muir who established this jumping off point at 10,000 feet in 1888 - he though that the location provided good protection from the wind - boy was he wrong! Our day, however, was sunny and clear. We were met by Bill on the snowfield with fresh watermelon and there was more at the camp, thanks to Bronca - what a treat that was! Travel up the snow field was as good as it gets and we arrived fit and strong at camp. We had a few hours to eat and drink, then bed by 6:30 pm.

Sleeping in the cabin at Muir is basically impossible unless you are drunk. 1. It is light outside. 2. there are 17 other people there. 3. It is somewhat smelly. 4. Someone has to get up and pee every 10 minutes. 5. you are about to climb Rainier, and that is pretty exciting.

At 12:30 we were roused by Brent, our lead guide. We were told to pack everything, but start the climb in a base layer and climbing pants only - it was a warm night. When I got out of the shack I was shocked that it was almost as light as day, with a full moon illuminating the clear sky and Washington State for hundreds of miles in every direction.We got dressed, sorted our packs, had a quick breakfast and put on crampons. We then negotiated the tricky 20 feet down to the Cowlitz Glacier to get roped into teams. I was lucky enough to be on a rope with Richard Adams and Justin, one of a large group of folks from Ferguson Construction (note to Ferguson - you have some quality people working for you). Our Lead was Eric.

Our ascent started up through the Cathedral Rocks, through Cadaver Gap (nice name - now more commonly called Cathedral Gap). Shale and rocks, no fun but brief at 60 minutes, tops. We rested on the Ingraham Flats, site of the worst disaster on Mt Rainier ever in 1981 when 11 climbers were killed in an ice fall avalanche. We rest there because it is the safest spot on the mountain....

Justin is looking beat and the guides give him an opportunity to turn.... the worst is yet to come and you need to feel strong to leave from here. There is no stopping before the next break in 90 minutes - we have to climb Disappointment Cleaver - the steepest most challenging part of the climb. Justin thinks about this for a while, and we can feel his pain. To train this hard and have to turn around is crushing. I remember how tired I was last year, and how nervous I was at what was to come. I was sure he would turn, but he said “let’s give it a go” so we did.

The cleaver is brutal, but not too brutal. I was thankful for my training hikes up the cable line with 50 pounds in my pack and no trekking poles - that made all the difference. That, and the cleaver was 3/4 snow covered, which is way easier than shale, and it was dark enough that I could ignore the drop! At the top of the cleaver we cruised onto rest stop number 2 on the Emmons Glacier and I was still feeling pretty strong - amazing compared to last year. Justin was beat, and called this his summit - he will undoubtedly summit next year if he wants - he has the heart.

With Justin and one other climber turning, we now rearranged the ropes, and Richard and I found ourselves with Lyn and Leslie - Team Loser together again, now with Jared as our lead. Jared is an EMT with the Graham Fire Department. He was a total crack-up and kept us going all the way to the summit. With two rope teams and two guides, anyone turning around from here on out meant that a whole rope-team would have to turn. I felt that it was good Karma that team loser were together. There are no other people I would rather be roped up with (Barb and Peter the exceptions), I choked down some Shot-Blocks (thank-you Cliff Bars) and a cup of hot chocolate and it was time to leave.

Above the cleaver we ran into a real traffic jam - every climber in the Northwest wanted to climb on the full moon and the switch-backs up to the high break were and ant-line of teams - some a lot slower than us. After 45 minutes of minimal progress, Jared decided to blaze a new trail - straight up the mountain. Ed Viesturs may say “No shortcuts to the top”, but Jared was having none of that. That was hard for all of us, but we managed to pass the slowest groups.

The upper mountain is just beautiful. As we were climbing, the sun came up over Eastern Washington like someone turned the lights on. We went from headlamps to sunglasses in 10 minutes. We spent the next hour traversing higher and higher, crossing deep blue crevasses over stunning terrain. When we stopped at high break, I knew were going to make it. Leslie was feeling really pukey (AMS I think), but with a bit of Zofran and a lot of determination she got herself together and we started out on the final 1000 feet.

That last 1000 feet seemed to last forever, but at some point I looked up (not usually a good idea) and saw rocks for the first time in hours. That HAS to be the crater rim! then a climber passed us and said “300 feet to go, guys”. Stepping into the crater was an indescribable feeling. You have to do it to know it.

Not content with reaching the crater, I had to get to the “true summit” at Columbia Crest. This required another forty minutes of walking and climbing when I could have been sitting or sleeping! But I had to get my “Hillary” shot, holding my ice-axe over my head with my Nepali flag. And I had to sign the summit register.

That done we went back to our group where I had 10 minutes to rest my legs, eat and drink and just relax before we had to leave. You don’t want to tarry too long as the mountain warms up and starts shedding rocks and ice onto unsuspecting climbers on the way down. As Lou Whittaker says “just because you love the mountain, doesn’t mean the mountain loves you back”.

As I packed up, I noticed the steam vents around the crater rim, reminding me that this is still an active volcano, and if it blows, Mt Saint Helen’s will look mild in comparison.

The descent was not a lot of fun. My big toes have lost their nails (again). The snow was turning softer and we had little chance to rest. We all slipped and stumbled, and once we even got to yell “falling” as Richard pitched down the cleaver head first. Luckily his natural gravitational attraction brought him to a halt in the sun-cupped snow before too far, but we all got to exercise our arrest skills and it woke us up a bit as well! Seeing the mountain while you are looking down in the sun is a very different experience from looking up (or looking at your boots) in the moonlight. This is a big mountain.

After a quick trip through the bowling alley, so named for the rocks that bowl climbers over from the cliffs above, we descended the Cathedral Rocks and cruised back into Muir. As we crossed the Cowlitz Glacier a rock fall thundered behind us - the mountain was shrugging us off.

One hour at Muir to pack up then …down to Paradise. Tired and sore, I changed into a pair of red “Croks” at Pebble Creek, betting that the rest of the way down would be largely rubble. Wrong.

After slipping and sliding in the snow, stubbornly refusing to change back into my climbing boots for an hour I finally got back to base. Now I know why they call it Paradise.

Photos of the climb here

Back from Nepal in one piece - updated

Mon, 19 May 2008 15:28:56 -0700

Max and I got back unscathed. I took way too many photos!

It was a great trip and we were blessed with fine clear days. The Himalayas are definitely worth seeing and the people and culture in the high mountains are exceptional.

The transition between the Hindu city of Kathmandu and the Buddhist villages of the Khumbu was fun and interesting. The total absence of infrastructure in the mountains and the fact that EVERYTHING is carried in on someone’s back puts out 1st world existence in a new light.

Every village we passed through was charming in its own way and the people, especially the children, were freindly and cheerful.

We reached basecamp on the morning that the Chinese Olympic torch bearers finally made the summit - much to the refief of the many waiting climbers.

We were also in Kathmandu when the monarchy was abolished and the king evicted from the “pink palace” by the elected Maoist government.

The pictures from the trip are arranged by day in separate albums with some text to put them in context.

The complete set of photos from the trip are here

Off to Nepal

Fri, 25 Apr 2008 21:49:05 -0700

Off to Nepal today.

Flying to LA tonight, then Bangkok, then Kathmandu...

Our itinerary is as follows:

DAY 1. April 28 ~ Arrive In Kathmandu
The Malla Hotel.
DAY 2. April 29 ~ Explore Kathmandu
Following breakfast, we will spend the morning attending CME lectures at our hotel. In the afternoon, Kathmandu is ours to explore. Kathmandu is one of three former medieval city-states in the Valley, along with Bhaktapur and Patan. By western standards, the city is intimate. You can visit the many interesting sights, shrines, and markets, or stroll in Kathmandu's fascinating Asan Tole bazaar. Don't miss Durbar Square, Thamel, Swayambhunath (the "Monkey Temple," overlooking the entire Valley) and the King's Palace. Brief CME lecture before dinner. Overnight at Malla Hotel.
DAY 3. April 30 ~ Mountain flight to Lukla and begin trek
Transfer to the airport for the mountain flight to Lukla airstrip (weather permitting). During the short but spectacular flight we will leave the Kathmandu Valley and head into the Himalaya, the world's highest mountains rising before you. . Our first camp will be at 8,900' near Phakding, along the rushing Dudh Kosi. (3-4 hours hiking.)
DAY 4. May 1 ~ Namche Bazaar (11,270')
The trail continues north up the Dudh Kosi valley. Camp in Namche Bazaar. (5-6 hours hiking.)
DAY 5. May 2 ~ Rest day around Namche Bazaar to enjoy local excursions
A rest day in Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, with a number of local excursions.
DAY 6. May 3 ~ Khumjung (12,475')
Late morning hike to the lovely village of Khumjung, with its views of Ama Dablam. Sir Edmund Hillary established a school in Khumjung. (2 hours hiking.)
DAY 7. May 4 ~ Tengboche (12,680')
Descend into the deep Dudh Kosi Gorge and ascend the other side—one of the most beautiful valley walks on earth—to camp in the lovely meadows around Tengboche Monastery,. Camp overnight near the monastery. (5-6 hours hiking.)
DAY 8. May 5 ~ Labarma (14,500')
Hike down through a beautiful forest, cross the Imja Khola, and pass through the village of Pangboche. Here we'll descend for a short bit, cross a wooden bridge, then hike up beautiful pastures to an area called Labarma, a summer pasture for yaks. From here we'll have beautiful views of the Nuptse/Lhotse wall, Pumori, and Everest. (5 hours hiking.)
DAY 9. May 6 ~ Ama Dablam Base Camp – Dingboche
Morning hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp (15,700'), set in a beautiful meadow with stunning views of the mountain. Retrace our steps back to Pangboche, then follow a route through summer pastures to the large village of Dingboche (14,500'). (7-8 hours hiking.) (B,L,D)
DAY 10. May 7 - My Birthday!! ~ Lobuje (16,200')
Hike up along the broad valley floor to Dughla (15,100'), where we stop for lunch, then continue to the yak grazing pastures at Lobuje. (5-6 hours hiking.) (B,L,D)
DAY 11. May 8 ~ Gorak Shep (17,000')
Walk along boulder fields and glacial debris to the edge of the Khumbu Glacier then continue up to Gorak Shep, nestled under the snow-coned summit of Pumori (23,442') and the sheer west face of Nuptse (25,850'). (2-4 hours hiking.) If we are well acclimatized, we can hike up Kala Patar (18,192'), high above the Khumbu Glacier, for a dramatic close-up view of Everest.
DAY 12. May 9 ~ Everest Base Camp
Time and weather permitting, we can make an optional hike up to Everest Base Camp (17,600') for views of the Khumbu Icefall. Return to Lobuje (16,200'). (9-10 hours hiking.)
DAY 13. May 10 ~ Pangboche
An easy walk down the Imja Khola with a visit to the gompa at Pangboche (12,661'). Camp overnight near the monastery. (5 hours hiking.)
DAY 14. May 11 ~ Namche Bazaar (11,270')
A steep descent to the Dudh Kosi and another climb up to Namche Bazaar. (5-6 hours hiking.)
DAY 15. May 12 ~ Return to Lukla (9,200')
A long but leisurely trek down the Dudh Kosi to Lukla, passing the village of Phakding en route. (8 hours hiking)
DAY 16. May 13 ~ Return to Kathmandu
*Fly to Kathmandu (weather permitting!). Upon arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel. Overnight at Malla Hotel or similar hotel.

*The next day will be spent either in Kathmandu or Lukla, depending on our luck with the Lukla flight. Flights in and out of this tiny mountain airstrip are commonly delayed and we have no way of predicting the length of the delay; it's something we just have to live with. With luck we'll get out the first day. We cannot overemphasize the unreliability of these flights.

DAY 17. May 14 ~ Kathmandu
If the Lukla flight is not delayed, we'll have a morning tour of the Hindu shrines at Pashupatinath on the Bagmati River and the large Buddhist stupa at Bodhnath, center of the Tibetan Buddhist culture in Kathmandu. The afternoon is free to relax or do some last minute shopping or sightseeing on our own. Overnight at Malla Hotel or similar hotel (B,D)
DAY 18. May 15 ~ Fly home
Transfer to airport and depart Kathmandu on homeward-bound flights to Bangkok then LA the Seattle - arriving back Friday mid day.

Snow Shoeing up Mount Si

Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:43:32 -0700

After the latest snow fall in Seattle history, Peter Wall, Max and I decided to tackle Mt Si. It was a great opportunity to hike with heavy packs in the snow - trying out crampons and snow shoes for the first time this season.

This is also the last hike before we fly to Nepal and I was interested to see how Max would do - given his slender frame and irregular exercise habits. In the end he beat us both to the top and back down to the car again!

It was a great day for a hike - with sun at the summit for our lunch :)

First Hike of the 2008 Season - Little Si

Sat, 15 Mar 2008 16:39:47 -0700

In preparation for the season, Max and I joined the Climb for Clean Air Crew for a quick jaunt up Little Si. I forgot my camera so the only photo I have is above! Max actually enjoyed the hike, despite the photo!

We are both off to Nepal to trek from Lukla to Everest in April, so this was a gear-test for Max....