Lukovska Banja
Lukovska Banja
The next morning we were once again greeted by the driver who planned to take us to Lukovska Banja, a spa about 36 km west of Kuršumlija. After Turkish coffee, we climbed back into his car and were on the road to the high-altitude spa. After a short distance outside the town, the pot-hole filled asphalt road changed to gravel and then dirt. He stopped once to check the air filter, but there was nothing that could be done right then. He insisted that it was better if the windows were kept open – something we questioned, especially as the dust began clouding the inside of the car. Sitting in the back seat, I even noticed the dust spewing in from behind me. We could feel ourselves getting dirtier by the moment. At one point he was asked to stop, so we could get a few breaths of fresh air. We stopped past an old wooden bridge that had planks of weathered boards on top, about wheel-axel length apart. In the creek, we found some cute tiny frogs and pollywogs.
Continuing on our way, we encountered road construction, in the beginning stages of straightening out some of the narrow windy roads and building a few bridges. These large construction vehicles really kicked up a lot of dust. We passed farmers driving tiny tractors which looked like they were simply a motor with a steering wheel. In the attached wagon, one could find people (smoking, of course), loads of wood, or hay. I even spotted a few oxen hauling large logs.
Finally we arrived at Lukovska Banja. Situated about 681m above sea level, it is the highest spa in Serbia. A geyser spouted out sulfur-smelling thermal water. Pat and I spotted some crocuses across the creek, so we headed over there. We were surprised to see them so late in the year. Their shape was different than the ones I saw in Zlatibor. Walking along another path (I didn’t want to take off my shoes again to cross the creek), I went past a pretty but small waterfall in the highly wooded area. Crossing a bridge, I met up with the rest. They were soaking their feet in a large pool of thermal water, about 65°C in temperature. Many local people (mostly elderly) joined us. One lady wearing a swimsuit sat in it – certainly tempting.
After a snack at the local hotel, we got back in the dusty car and headed back to Prolom Banja.
Dusty car - RPM
Photo by Pat Andjelković
From left: waterfall, field of crocuses, distant monastery
Lazarica Church
The Lazarica Church is a nice forest walk about 2.4 km away from Prolom Banja. We spotted a sign saying Lazarica path, so we followed it. While this walk (presumably the path that Prince Lazar took) was picturesque, we were glad that we traveled through the narrow footpaths and rickety bridge while it was still light out. Although it seemed longer than 2.4 km, we finally reached the log church – the only one of its type in the Toplica region. According to legend, Prince Lazar’s soldiers (1389 AD) went around the church six times while praying for victory in Kosovo. While doing this, the trees intertwined and twisted in the direction of their movement. The original plum trees have died, but new ones grew and assumed the same look – always only six trees.
