The Travelling Kid: Destinations!
FOLEGANDROS, Cycladic Gem Part Two
"How could I ever think that I, with my two hands could touch the sky?"
- Sappho
PATIENCE PLEASE ON DOWNLOAD. LOTS OF GREAT PIX!
![PART TWO…now:
Like the mist-shrouded enchanted village of Brigadoon, Folegandros has some imperceptible energy about it. People return every year, extending their stay for as long as their life and work will allow...secretly wishing that they could stay forever. It’s a cult.
Sort of.
My 23 year old stepson traveled with us to Folegandros this year and he said…”Boy, you guys seem to know more people here from random parts of the planet…I mean, it seems like you have more friends here than you do at home.”
It’s true.
Sort of.
We have friends from Paris, Venice, Berlin, Boston, Milan and more - who we see often. Many of them we see every time we are there and if we don’t see one another, we email each other during the year, exchange photos and wistfully wish we were ‘there’. This year, our friends from Venice coordinated their visit with ours and we coordinated our visit with our pals from Paris. 
Sort of.
You see, the beauty of Folegandros is that you can toss regular conventions around friendship, plans and the world to the Meltemi winds and virtually watch them blow away across the Aegean. It is the one place where we feel that we can let down our guard, not even think about emails and not worry about a thing.
Once you drink in the island, life becomes simpler and simpler until the complexities of life just melt away. One day I looked over and noticed that our Parisian pal Daniele was staring into space, an unlit cigarette hanging from his mouth…not a thought in his head.
That’s why we go.
We don’t care that there are more people there now. Once you hit ‘the zone’ you don’t actually care. Yes, there are more hotels and there are t-shirts and postcards now and the occasional ‘ugly American’ but they seem to be absorbed by the imperceptible power on the island. We still love it. So does Jacob.
Jacob remembers EVERYTHING from the island. “Where are the chickens?” he asked on the first morning of our last visit. We looked over and sure enough, a building was being built where a chicken coop had been the year before. He remembered. He remembered Valerie and Daniele from Paris and his pal Nicholas at the taverna known as Folegandros Bar. We’ve been going to this wonderful little slice of Greek food heaven for 18 years. Nicholas is the proprietor. He’s the guy in the previous article that taught my husband to Greek Dance in the middle of the square. Anyone who can both cook well and can get my husband to dance has my devotion forever.

Nicholas knew. He knew that Folegandros would make the cover of Conde Nast. He knew the people would come. He bet his whole life and his whole spirit on it. When you go to Folegandros…visit Nicholas. He has booklets that he has created in every language that will guide you through your adventures on the island. His expertise and his love of life is a better tour guide than I could ever be. Actually, I take that back. YOU ARE a better tour guide. Folegandros is the type of place where you should follow your spirit. Don’t plan. Just plan how to get there and where to stay and the rest will take care of itself.
Sort of.
So, now that you’ve ‘sort of’ gotten the who, what and where…
Get ready for the whys and the hows of bringing your Travelling Kid to the ‘Brigadoon’ of the Cyclades! I say, ‘get ready’ because I have been an evangelist of sorts for this island for over 18 years and I am, to put it mildly, biased.
WHY:
Why take your kid to Greece in the first place? First of all: Greeks love kids. They spoil them. The entire country is like a big village filled with Grandparents offering hugs and sweets topped with a wink and a cheek tweak.
If that’s not enough for you…here is the latest ‘Folegandros Favorites’ list from my three year old:
Studying goat poo on dusty hiking trails with views to the sea. Sitting on a white-washed wall of a church in a square under trees strung with lights, while playing with new friends from Norway and Italy and Iceland. Donkey sightings. Boat rides and beaches. Ice cream and souvlaki. Running and jumping through an old threshing square. Eating ‘taverna-style’ – which means being able to act like a kid and giggle and wander among people who are your extended family at a friendly taverna in a beautiful square. People; out for their evening walk…wave hello and smile.
Jacob can now count Giovanni from Venice, Kari from Reykjavik and Sophocles from Folegandros as his friends…our families forever linked.
I have personally seen Folegandros work its magic on kids from age 1-23. Older kids LOVE the freedom factor. You can hand the older ones (like pre-teens) some Euros and let them wander on their own and know that they will be safe. What a concept.
I guarantee that you will become a devotee…if not for you…for your kids.
HOW TO GET THERE:
Here’s how you and your Travelling Kid can enjoy Folegandros:
First, figure out how to get there. This is more complex than you would think. The ferry schedules are also like ‘Brigadoon’. Kind of uncertain. If you think I’m kidding…check out any website/chat on travelling on Greece. That said, here are the options that are ordinarily available to you:
1. In high season you can take a high-speed boat from Athens’s Port of Piraeus. The boat takes about 4 hours and is the best, smoothest way to go. This is a new addition to the transportation options.
2. Fly or take a high speed to Santorini and then take a ferry to Folegandros.
3. Take a 12-hour boat from Athens/Piraeus to Folegandros. Personally, I’d rather eat old shoes. But, I’ve braved this long voyage in the past.
4. Take a boat to Ios or Milos or Sikinos or Sifnos or another island that has connections to Folegandros.
5. Take a helicopter. It will set you back about $3,000. When I make my millions I will do it, just to experience the trip over the Aegean.
6. Take a leisurely sail on a rented boat with a captain and go to a few islands along the way and end up in Folegandros. We did this once with our whole family and it was fun…but it’s not the quickest route.
7. Come by private yacht like George Bush Sr. does every June for his birthday.
For more information on the Greek Ferry Schedules check out: www.gtp.gr
Know and plan on the fact that the weather might change the schedule, so DO NOT make a tight connection on your way back FROM Folegandros to catch a plane from Athens. Take it from us veterans.
Also, I always travel with a life jacket. Yes, it’s bulky – but I feel so much better on the ferries and on the tiny inter-beach boats with it. Jacob LOVES to wear his and always asks to put it on before we board the boats.
WHERE TO STAY:
Once you have your game plan, make a reservation for a hotel. There are many new ones on the island now.
We always stay at THE ANEMOMILOS . Cornelia and Dimitri are like family now and also they have the MOST amazing views. It is the most high-end hotel on the island and you will be able to find cheaper accommodations easily. But we LOVE the people, the pool, the views and the fact that it is so close to the village. The apartments also have kitchens, which makes it very easy with a kid. Please note that the HOTEL is very kid friendly, but NOT ALL the apartments are kid friendly because of their proximity to the cliff. Cornelia will advise you which one to book.
http://www.anemomilosapartments.com
Here are other hotels we think look nice and have gotten good word of mouth:
MELTEMI : we always put people there. It is located just across from the Anemomilos, close to town but no views. It is simple, but sweet and clean. VERY nice people and VERY reasonable prices. No kitchens. Kid friendly. http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/folegand/chora/meltemi/home.htm
FATA MORGANA : The new kid in town. The proprietor is from the family that owned the very first hotel on the island. She is nice and the hotel has a nice pool with a view. The apartments have kitchens. Again, not all the apartments are kid friendly because of balconies and cliff. http://www.fatamorgana.com.gr
ANEMOUSA: Our Parisian pals stayed here. A very nice schoolteacher on the island owns it. They have simple rooms with fridge and no kitchen but GORGEOUS views. http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/folegand/chora/anemousa/home.htm
KIFINES: (which means drone…as in male bee) owned by a beekeeper/taverna owner. The taverna he owns is the one where we met the bouzouki player 18 years ago (article PART ONE) http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/folegand/chora/kifines/home.htm
For more hotels try: http://www.greekhotel.com/cyclades/folegand/home.htm
[Left: Meltemi; Bottom Right: Anemousa]
GENERAL ORIENTATION:
Folegandros is a very small island with one road (although they were building a second one this year) They have two buses now and still one taxi. There are rental cars and scooters now. Sigh. So, you will have no problem getting around. It is a great walking island. Also, if I ever get a house on the isle I will keep an electric bicycle there. That’s really all you would need.
There is the port town of Karovostassis. It is not that interesting to me. I prefer staying in CHORA the main town. There is also another small town called ANO MERIA which is mostly farms and is lovely, but there is no central square so it will never be able to compete on the charm scale with CHORA. CHORA is a white-washed wonder with several churches, which create connecting squares filled with tavernas. There are no cars in the main part of the town and so people meander and kids ride bikes and play and run around in little packs. Jacob loves it.
The beaches (as described in the article) still exist and are still tricky to get to. Some you can take a bus to (like the Port beaches). Others you need a bus or a car. Others you take a bus or car to and THEN a boat or hike in. But they are worth it.
WHERE TO EAT:
For FOOD: Follow your nose. We love Nicolas’ Folegandros Bar. It’s got the best food and Nicolas is very funny and entertaining and speaks a ba-zillion languages. He will also make things ‘as you like it’ and you can get anything any time of day. Want spaghetti for breakfast? No problem. He makes every thing ‘at the moment’ and it is fresh as fresh can be. Try one of his ‘instantly made cheese pies’ or his pasta or a crepe or his perfect cappuccino (with secret messages written on the top in cinnamon). You won’t be sorry. There are many of us ‘devotees’ who have been patrons for years. I have tried to duplicate his dishes on many occasions and have failed miserably. One of his mottos is written on his hand-made menus: ‘Respect, care, love and standard production to all things we are doing.’ I mean with a philosophy like that how can you go wrong?
The next plateia (square) over you will find two tavernas that serve solid typical taverna fare and they are very nice people. You will be made to feel very comfortable there. There is also THE SOUVLAKI CLUB there and the young owner is very nice and the souvlaki very tasty and reasonably priced. The square is alive and bustling and is strung with lights. This is also home to ASTARTI Bar. We LOVE the owner and the bar. You can sit outside or in and listen to his VAST collection of amazing Greek music. The plateia beyond has two tavernas. One is O KRITIKOS, which is known for its meat dishes. O KRITIKOS is owned by a lovely man named Christos. His wife Elektra and their son Sophocles (yes, the real names) are friends of ours. I don’t eat lamb, but my stepson does and he said it was spectacular. The other restaurant is called TO TZIK . I have only been there once and the food was good.
Another memorable place is the ALL DAY BAR which is located on the edge of town just past the FATA MORGANA HOTEL and just below the ANEMOUSSA HOTEL. The views are unsurpassed and the owner is very nice man from Thessaloniki who has a young daughter named Vanilla. The bar has been created lovingly and spectacularly from an old ‘raki’ making facility (raki is local moonshine in Greece and kind of like Grappa). And there is a lovely apricot tree there that Jacob picked tons of fruit from.
Also, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the taverna at Agios Nikolas Beach. To get to this beach you need to walk 45 minutes (from Angali beach) or take a boat from Angali beach. The taverna sits at the top of the hill overlooking the Aegean and is owned by a nice man named Takis and his family. His father, Hercules is supposed to be the BEST fish griller in all of Greece.
There are other little places to eat that I have never been to and there are lots of little grocery stores. If you have a kitchen it’s fun to have snacks or the occasional meal in your hotel with great Greek ingredients. There are also tavernas located at the Port and Angali beach.
Bottom line: you won’t be left hungry and you won’t be disappointed in the life on the island unless you need discos, Internet access and sophistication. If you are only happy with sleek, reliable things – this is not the island for you.
The ‘things’ to do here are existential. Literally. Walk in the town. The locals are sitting and chatting and existing. You may see a dog or a cat running along the green decorated stones of the village or you may spot a donkey.  Maybe you’ll see an impromptu fish-market. A local fisherman pulls up in his car, opens the trunk and whips out a scale and his freshly caught fish. The taverna owners hover and haggle. Perhaps you will explore the white-washed labyrinth of Castro...the old fortress section of the town. You may be invited to join a Greek wedding and end up dancing in the middle of the village shouting ‘Opa!’. Maybe you will walk up the cliff to the Panageia Church and take in the sunset. Maybe you will end up like our friend Daniele, staring out into space...not a thought in your head. Maybe not.
A couple of housekeeping issues:
If you need a travel agency when you
are on the island the ONLY good one is:
Diaplous Travel. They also have Internet access that you can pay for if you simply must ‘connect’.
info@diaploustravel.gr
http://www.diaploustravel.gr

PLEASE NOTE: there is no bank on the island. Many places do not take credit cards. There is ONE cash machine, but if it’s not working or out of money you will be out of luck. Plan accordingly.
For a great article about the charms and uncertainties on travelling and from to my fave isle, read the Conde Nast Article: http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/detail?articleId=5959 The article’s writer was the one that let the taverna kitty out of the bag. Darn him. But, who can blame him? Once you’ve discovered this Cycladic Gem, you’ll want ‘share the love’ too.
It’ll seem ‘sort of’ selfish not to.
Official Folegandros Site:: www.folegandros.gr
See Google map below for Folegandros Live!
Click below for fun Folegandros Video](13_FOLEGANDROS,_Cycladic_Part_Two_files/shapeimage_1.png)
