The Travelling Kid: Destinations!
The Travelling Kid: ATHENS!
A very young man exploring some very old ruins...
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![Why should you take your kid to Greece?
First of all: Greeks love children. They spoil them. I take my toddler there every year and it’s like being on vacation with a whole village of grandparents offering your kid toys and sweets...topped with a good old-fashioned cheek tweak. Second of all: This land of myths, gods and goddesses is gorgeous and FILLED with great things to do and see for kids of all ages, including teens. Greece is one of the most unique places on the planet and Athens happens to be one of my favorite cities in the world. I relish the opportunity to share ‘my’ city with you!
Athens is a crazy-mixed-up-salt of a city. Street dogs herd tourists and chic Athenians through obstacle course sidewalks onto frenzied traffic-filled streets…and yet there is a rhythm, a heartbeat, a logic that somehow creates a symphony of the cacophony.
Athena’s city first welcomed me as an exchange student in 1977, when it somehow turned my life inside out in such a way as to reveal to me who I really am. Such a gift is never forgotten and so I have returned to ‘her’ dozens of times. I will never forget the time she soothed me one cold January after miscarrying a hard won pregnancy. And, after Jacob was finally born, I felt Athens’ warm embrace as I watched my son tearing through the National Gardens ogling the goats and the peacocks.
So…all hyperbole aside…you can see that The Travelling Kid: Athens! will truly be an insider’s guide.
INTRO TO ATHENS:
First: You can’t compete with ‘her’. Don’t fight the chaos…rather absorb it and go with the flow. I always expect that a flight or a ferryboat may be cancelled. There may be a demonstration in the square outside the hotel when we want to take a nap and I can basically count on the fact that when I’m hot and sweaty and can’t take another step, that I will not be able to get a taxi. BUT…magically a solution or some ‘x’ factor always presents itself and the adventure somehow takes me around a new corner that I haven’t been before and the ‘mishap’ invariably turns out to be a highlight of the trip. For example, on this last trip I couldn’t get a taxi and so I punted and took the metro. My three year old couldn’t stop talking about the train and asking, ‘when can we take the train again?’ and ‘when can I see the train again?’ etc. In fact, our last night in Athens we
made sure to pick a restaurant in Monastiraki that had both a view of the Acropolis, the Agora and the train. And yes…the Greeks have constructed train tracks that run right through the ancient Agora where Socrates and Plato, lovers of wisdom, considered life. That is the meat of Athens right there. Ancient and Modern; Reverence and Irreverence; Chaos and Calm; all living side by side in what the Greeks call ‘harmonia’. This living dichotomy of a city offers all of these delicious and rich contrasts for your personal dining and Greek dancing pleasure. Opa!

So, how do you enjoy this enigmatic city with your kids, instead of seeking refuge in your air-conditioned hotel?
Simple. You just dive right in.
Athens, despite pickpockets, is basically a very safe city and very walk-able…but not super stroller-friendly. There are some walk streets, which are stroller heaven and there are other bits with broken, narrow sidewalks with cars speeding by that will curl your toes. The weather in the summer is VERY hot, so I suggest: do as the Greeks and your average toddler do and go out early in the morning, NAP in the afternoon heat of the day and then enjoy the cool evening when the city comes alive.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO:
THE ACROPOLIS, the postcard symbol of Athens. This rocky outcropping rises majestically out of the chaos and is located smack dab in the middle of the city. It is home to the Parthenon…the temple to Athena, the Caryatids, the Temple of Athena Nike, The Acropolis Museum, The Theater of Dionysus and the Herodus Atticus Theatre. The Acropolis is a very cool place. And since I mean cool as in ‘groovy’ and definitely not ‘cool’ temperature…I suggest going first thing in the morning. After you’ve had enough of the Acropolis, I suggest the following: instead of walking out the way you came up, exit to the right and walk down the BACK of the Acropolis and into the...

ANCIENT AGORA. Perhaps you’ll feel the spirits of philosophers resting among the ruins under the watchful eye of the god Hephaistos (whose well-preserved temple keeps watch over the grounds) or maybe you’ll just enjoy your kids jumping and running and zooming all over and around the ancient stones while you rest in the shade of the olives and pines scattered here and there.

THE PLAKA & MONASTIRAKI: As you exit the Agora you will find yourself in the Plaka/Monastiraki district. Plaka is the old town that lies at the base of the Acropolis and Monastiraki is the adjacent flea market area. It is a fun and lively district filled with cafes and tavernas, which should take care of any food or beverage craving you may be having. My guess is you will be wickedly hungry and thirsty after hanging out in the Agora and/or on the Acropolis. I suggest a frosty Mythos beer for moms and dads and an ice cream for kids…because it is bound to be hot. You will also find lots of great little shops here – but I suggest shopping at night when it is cooler. The shops in Plaka stay open late (9 or 10pm), but the ones in Monastiraki are only open until around 6pm. My husband has often said that being in Plaka in the middle of the day is Dante-esque at the very least and he only goes there because he loves me. However, it can be a very pleasant place to hang out in the shade of the many tavernas, restaurants and cafes for lunch or a snack. (I have listed some of my restaurant suggestions at the end of this article.) If you aren’t tired and you would like to see some more ruins after you’ve had some sustenance, I suggest going to the
Roman Agora in the Plaka and seeing the Tower Of The Winds water clock. Older kids will love it.
http://www.culture.gr/2/21/211/21101n/e211an01.html

THE NATIONAL GARDENS is my husband’s favorite place to go with our son. It is Athens’ answer to Central Park and a shady respite from the city. We sometimes bring a little picnic or just meander. My son loves running along the winding gravel paths. We love the ancient columns scattered here and there and enjoy having a coffee at the small, sequestered kafeneion. My son loves the little zoo, we love the shady trees and we all love the playground, which has some of the craziest playground equipment I’ve ever seen.

[The Zoo & and ancient column in the National Gardens]
There is also a playground in Dexameni Square in Kolonaki at the base of Lykabettus Hill. Kolonaki is like the ‘Beverly Hills’ of Athens and is a fun place to walk around and to grab a meal or a coffee. Lykabettus Hill is also a charming destination and there is a funicular there, which kids ADORE. It is the highest hill in central Athens and once at the top you will enjoy a 360-degree view of Athens and Attica. In the summer they often have outdoor concerts and that can be a fun thing to do too.
The Changing of the Guards in front of the Parliament on Syntagma Square always fascinates my toddler and it fascinated his older brothers before him. It takes place every hour and it’s hard to describe the unique...well almost bizarre way they do it. The guards wear BIG wooden shoes and walk this very specific, very slow walk. The guards are always really a big hit with kids and if the guards don’t get their attention the pigeons will; so bring that leftover bread from your park picnic.
A recent discovery on my part is the KERAMEIKOS CEMETERY. This was a surprise hit. It is an ancient cemetery filled with old ruins and statuary. You can also see the ancient fortification walls of Athens, the Dipylon Gate where ancient roads converged and you can imagine that you see Plato’s Academy which was located in this area, but has yet to be uncovered by archaeologists. It is also where the entrance gate to the Sacred Way was located, where people began their pilgrimage to the Eleusinian Mysteries. My son just LOVED racing around the ruins there and I loved the quiet, the view of the Acropolis and imagining the magic surrounding the Sacred Way. 
MUSEUMS:
If you are a big museum fan or if your kids are, you should not miss the National Archaeological Museum. It contains some of the great treasures of the ancient Greek world: statues of Gods and Goddesses and Cycladic sculptures and ancient swords and the solid gold Mask of Agamemnon, to mention a few. My son loved all the BIG statues and wanted to know what the ‘stories’ were on all the giant Greek vases that were decorated with animals, heroes and Gods. There are definitely enough ‘big-ticket’ items to keep everyone entertained. Also, it’s air-conditioned. There are other gorgeous museums, such as the Benaki and The Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art and the Byzantine Museum. However, the ones I can recommend for children are

a.The Children’s Museum
in Plaka
(closed in Summer)
The Musical Instrument
Museum in Plaka
The Numismatic Museum (for young coin collectors)
For info on museums:
http://www.greece-museums.com/
THE ATHENS MARKET is an unusual, fun, sometimes smelly but always interesting place to go. It opens around 6 or 7AM and is the perfect thing to do when jet lag wakens your young ones at the crack of dawn. It’s wonderful to walk the streets of the still-somewhat-asleep city, basking in the cooler morning air. If you walk up Athinas street from Ermou (a lovely cobble stoned walk street) you will find it. Fish sellers; green stands bulging with fresh fruits and veggies; barrels of olives and feta; and (my favorite) shops filled with herbs and spices. I always pick up Greek oregano, saffron and chamomile and my sister-in-law would never speak to me again if I forgot to bring her the sweet paprika. My favorite herb shop is located at: 30 Euripidou owned by Kostas and Katrin. Kostas speaks some English and since it is a ‘botanical’ they know all the ‘old wives’ uses for all the herbs and teas. Don’t forget to buy some Greek Saffron. This usually prohibitively expensive herb is both affordable and of superior quality. Now, what is there for kids to do there? This shop just happens to be right next to a VERY COOL toy store where you can pick up inexpensive toys and even ‘floaties’ to take with you to the islands! My son still talks about this store where he got an awesome plastic dinosaur collection.
ATHENS AT NIGHT
If you’ve been following my ‘do as Greeks and toddlers do’ rule and have rested during the heat of the day – you will be ready to go out and about at night. Athens truly comes alive at night and there are a lot of wonderful choices of places to go and things to do.
First of all the main districts that I can recommend for night are:
1. Plaka/Monistiraki/Thissio: as I mentioned before – the old town district is bustling with people and cafes and shops and views of the Acropolis.
We like:
a. KUZINA: which opened in 2006. We just stumbled upon it because it looked really nice and it filled the requirements: a view of the trains for my son and a view of the Acropolis for mommy. The chef is AMAZING and has worked at the famous ROY restaurant in Hawaii. His culinary training shows and the service is fabulous and friendly. It’s open 1-1 and located at 9 Adrianou, Thissio 210.324.0133
b. O Platanos: very famous. Everyone knows it, so if you get lost it is easy to get directions. It was founded in the 1940s and is set in a village-like open courtyard under a large plane tree. They serve simple, typical Greek taverna fare. Open for lunch and dinner. Diogenous 4, Plaka 210.322.0666
c. EDEN: Vegetarian. It’s casual, good and open from 12-12. (Closed Tuesdays) Lyssiou 12 & Mnisikleous, Plaka 210.324.8858
d. If you would like a little home Greek cooking or souvlaki you can’t go wrong with any of the tavernas that are right on Monastiraki square opposite the metro entrance. You can’t miss them. There are several clustered around and one blends into the next.
2. Kolonaki: the ‘Beverly Hills’ of Athens at the base of Lykabettus Hill. It seems as if you are just walking in a residential district but you’ll hear the buzz of hundreds of voices...follow them and you’ll find a walk street filled with cafes and people walking up and down taking their evening ‘volta’.
We like:
a. Via Milioni, 3 Milioni Street (walk street), Kolonaki. 210.361.7196 Ask for Giorgios (George) the owner and tell him I sent you. Great food, great vibe and they were nice to Jacob.
b. Prytaneion Restaurant, Milioni 7, Kolonaki 210.364.3353
I recommend reservations to sit outside on the lovely walk street. The portions are ENORMOUS – so even though it is on the pricey side, it can be affordable. We often order a few dishes and then share them. The Rocket Salad is delicious and can feed 3 people easily. I also recommend the homemade ravioli.
c. Philippou, Xenokratous 19, Kolonaki 210.346.4984 This is an ‘old school’ taverna (founded 1923) and is a good value with good home cooking.
d. There are a couple of ‘quick food’ options too. There is a ‘no-name’ rotisserie chicken place just opposite Kolonaki Square on Kanari Street. It’s cheap, good and has been there for ages. You can also head to Tsakalof, which is a walk street, and go to Everest for quick toasted sandwiches. Everest also has a branch on Syntagma Square.
d. Haritos Street. If you walk up along Haritos Street far enough you will find that it turns into a walk street and it is lined with little restaurants and bars. Our fave is: AZUL
3. Psyrri: This area is filled with Greeks enjoying good food and live music. This is not a big tourist area. By day, this district (located very near Monastiraki) looks like a down-at-the-heels community of furniture and hardware stores. But at night it magically transforms itself into a hip, lively nightspot with good food and music. Like Brigadoon, it can be a little tricky to find. Your hotel will show you where it is on the map. In fact, when you turn off the main street to get to Psyrri you’ll find yourself on a dark, deserted street and it will feel as if you’ve made a bad, dangerous turn. You haven’t. Just keep walking and you will find the action. I can’t really recommend one restaurant over the other. We usually pick them on vibe and music at the moment we are there. We’ve never had a bad meal or bad experience and the music is exhilarating.
4. BIG NIGHT OUT: If you are lucky enough to have a sitter/family member with you so that you can go out alone or you have a child who hits the hay by 9:00 or 10:00pm (that can sleep in a stroller next to you as you dine) you might want to do what we do every year. We make reservations at the Grande Bretagne Hotel Rooftop Garden. The VIEW is AMAZING. The food is good, but pricey and it’s elegant and romantic, even though it is filled with Americans. (Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Square; 210.333.0766)
So, after you’ve dined out and taken your evening ‘volta’ there is still more stuff you can do with your kids.
I always grab a copy of THE ATHENS NEWS, which is available at almost every kiosk and (I usually get mine on Syntagma Square). Take a look at ‘what’s on’. The Athens Festival is there every summer and we have heard some great music under stars at the Herodus Atticus Theatre. The Lykabettus Theatre also has concerts, including jazz. Big stars often perform during the summer, as well. BUT the one BIG, BIG hit with my older ones was going to an open-air movie theatre. It is a kick. It’s like a drive-in...but you walk in and sit on chairs. The one in Kolonaki on Haritos street is surrounded by apartment buildings and the kids never got over the time we went and someone was taking a shower (which we could see and hear) in one of the apartments above us as while we watched some adventure movie. There are several open-air theatres in Athens and it is great fun for everyone, even if you don’t get to be ‘voyeurs’.
So, by day or by night...I think you will find that Athens is a great town. A writer I know who lived there for while and who has written guidebooks to Greece wrote:
“...the Greeks’ gods touched down on earth and became human, while Athenians, in turn, strove to become godlike. For some few glorious centuries they met, and the fire that blazed from Athens lit the stage of history, igniting the hearts of humankind.” *
I mean...with a resume like that, it’s kind of hard to go wrong.
*Quote from Jane Winslow Eliot
(from The Berlitz Travellers Guide:Greece Fifth Edition)
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