Where is the Genyen Massif?

Tucked into a remote valley on the edge of Tibet, the Genyen Mountains have remained hidden from the eyes of the outside world until just recently. There is no road through this section of the Shaluli Shan mountains and most of the visitors are Tibetan nomads paying homage to Mt Genyen or Nen-Da - which translates to the Sacred Mountain. In the broad glacial valley at the base of the mountains the 600 year old Rengo Monastery is the focal point of the Buddhist activity. Due to the inaccessibility of the area, the monastery is one of just a handful of temples that were not destroyed during the cultural revolution.

What were our Goals?

Only two expeditions had visited the area and both of those focused on climbing Mt Genyen. The goal of our expedition was not to trespass on the sacred Mount Genyen, but to explore and climb some of the other 20,000 foot rock and snow peaks and learn about the people and the environment in the Shaluli Shan Range of Western Sichuan. 

Expedition Outcome

Two first ascents

    Shachun  19,570 feet   5.10+, M5, 70 degree

    Phurpa    18,500 feet   5.8, 75 degree

Helped document and support the local Tibetan culture and assisted the local Buddhist Monks in  building a small hostel for tourists, that will hopeful raise money to support the Rengo Monastery

In the beginning of October, 2006, Americans Dave Anderson, Molly Loomis, Andy Tyson and Candain Sarah Hueniken flew to China to explore the Genyen Massif of Western Sichuan Province. Very little information was available about the region. The highest peak, Genyen (20,341ft.), was climbed in the spring of 2006 by a group of Italians. The peak is considered sacred by the local people and the Italian’s climb was somewhat controversial. The rest of the mountainous region was  unclimbed. The North American climbers spend four days traveling by jeep and horses to reach the mouth of the valley. At the request of the local monks they set up base camp  below the impressive Rengo Monastery.

Over the next three weeks the climbers experienced clear, relatively warm conditions which allowed them to explore the amazing region. A clear turquoise river wound through the center of the beautiful alpine valley while above snow, ice and rock peaks ringed the horizon.

On October 16th Anderson, Hueniken, Loomis and Tyson attempted a single push style ascent of the 19,570 foot Shachun, a striking “Patagonian looking” granite spire. Lack of acclimatization caused them to move slowly and they retreated before reaching the summit. Hueniken and Anderson returned on October 20 to finish the route rating it 5.10+, M5, 70 degree, completing the 4000 foot ascent roundtrip from their high camp in 17 hours.

Anderson described the climbing as, “Spectacular, excellent crack system in near perfect granite  including a 200 foot ring-lock sized splitter at 19,000 ft.” 

The final climbing ascended an unprotected 25 foot steep slab to a featureless summit ridge. While Anderson was down climbing from the summit (the team did not bring a bolt kit) a crystal snapped sending him on a 30 foot fall, luckily he landed in a pile of drifted snow unhurt.  They named the route “Dang Ba 'Dren Pa,” which means to inspire, enthuse and uplift in Tibetan, as to tribute to their friends Todd Skinner, Karen McNeil and Sue Nott.

The next day, at the south end of the valley, Loomis and Tyson climbed a 18,500 foot peak they named Phurpa after the triple bladed Tibetan dagger that the peak resembled. Leaving their high camp at 14,500, they fourth classed loose rock and a steep snow couloir to gain the east ridge leading them eventually to the summit after six pitches of mixed snow and rock (5.8). They called the route Naga (the serpent) after spending time “snaking” back at forth over the ridge with climbing reminiscent of the Grand Teton which they guide during the summer in Wyoming.

The two climbing teams attempted four other peaks in the area but did not reach their summits. In addition to the climbing, the expedition team learned about the history and present day issues of the Genyen region. Although the Rengo Monastery itself survived the wrath of the cultural revolution the monks and their religious freedoms did not. At one time a vibrant community supported 266 monks. Now there are just 7 monks trying to revive their lost religious culture and a handful of people herding yaks living in the valley. Even though the valley is remote it’s beauty attracts a number of Chinese and foreign trekkers each year and the climbing team helped build a small hostel that will be run by the monks as a way to raise funds for the monastery.

Although the climbers were well received by the local people and the monks, future visitors to the area should be respectful of established customs and the sacred peaks in the area.

William Gill

Mt Genyen 20,354 ft

Shachun 19,570 ft and Rengo Monastery