sunset from Torri del Benaco
Torri del Benaco is a small village on the eastern shore of Lake Garda, where I stayed at the lovely Hotel Gardesana, with a small terrace looking out over the lake and a charming little boat harbor. The village itself was ‘doable’ in a day, but since I spent a whole day sick with a flu, and another in due to rain, the timing worked out, with one day trip to a couple of Garda’s tourist gems, Malcesine and Limone sur Garda.
Germans apparently love this lake, as I saw more of them congregated in one place than I’d ever experienced before in my life, most with dogs. They seem crazy for long, bounteous breakfasts. And, boy, do they ever drive slow. I thought maybe they were doing it to spite the zippy Italians, not to mention this zippy Americano. How a country which produces the fastest cars on the autobahn has a population who drives purposely 10-15 mph under the speed limit is beyond me. Navigating the two lane road around the lake is a test of patience under any circumstances, but when there’s a car up ahead with a pair driving 20 mph in what’s probably a 35-40 mph zone, and a trail of 20 cars behind it all filled with people gnashing their teeth, it almost sent me over the edge. You’d think they might notice the trail behind them and pull over, but nooooooo. Anyone with clues to this mystery of the German driver who wishes to share them, please do let me know.
In any case, I enjoyed Malcesine, which must be the purse shop capital of Italy. One purveyor told me it had over 50 stores selling Italian leather handbags. Made for great smells. And, Limone sur Garda didn’t have any lemon trees, but was charming in its own way.
On the night it poured a huge rainstorm, I got sentimental over a quartet of 2 swan couples who lodged overnight, floating in the little harbor outside my room. They’re so beautiful. I learned they’re monogamous.