JCW Steering Wheel How-To

 

Before going any further, let me warn you; this mod is extremely cost-prohibitive for us 2-spoke wheel owners. It is much easier and cheaper to change an existing 3-spoke sport wheel to a JCW wheel, for just the cost of the JCW wheel itself. All other parts can be reused, thus saving you money. But when you have a 2-spoke wheel, none of the parts off the 2-spoke wheel are compatible with the 3-spoke sport (or JCW) wheel. Expect this mod to cost at least $700, but more likely approaching $1,000 or more.


So, are you still reading? GOOD!


PHASE 1 — Ordering parts:


















Go to REAL OEM.com to see a detailed list and diagram all the parts you need. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.domodel=RE33&mospid=48021&btnr=32_1496& hg=32&fg=35


First, find the OEM part numbers of each part you need.


• JCW 3-spoke steering wheel (part 1 in diagram)

Choose between all leather and leather/alacantara suede; I chose all leather.

I’ve found the best price is at Morristown MINI’s eBay store. I got mine for $375.00 plus shipping ($390 total). Dealers usually charge $550 or more for this part alone! I don't know why Morristown MINI is so cheap, but I'd act fast if you don't already have it!


• Airbag module for 3-spoke wheel (part 7 in diagram)

This is a doozy. I found mine on eBay, at a store called Five Star Airbags, and paid $191.00 for it, plus shipping. This price is actually a really good deal! Most go for well over $350.00. I had my doubts about getting an airbag on eBay, but after comparing it to the one on my car currently, it is totally legit. I do trust that this airbag is just fine.


• Left, right and middle spoke inserts (parts 2, 3 and 4 in diagram)

I have the multifunction controls, so I had to buy the more expensive inserts for the 3-spoke sport wheel which have the controls also. I got these at Classic MINI, out of Cleveland Ohio. Remember to tell them you’re a NAM member, and you get a significant discount! I paid $190 for all three pieces, plus shipping. If you don't have a multifunction wheel currently, you'll save more money here...


• (3) Torx screws (part 5 in diagram)

These hold the spoke inserts in place from the back of the wheel’s spokes, size 4 x 12 mm (T20 size head). $3.00 plus shipping.


• Connecting line or wiring harness (part 6 in diagram)

This connects all the controls for the multifunction controls—goes between the two spokes, to the column. $27.00 plus shipping. Note: if you don’t have a multifunction wheel, you won’t need this part.


I got the torx screws and connecting line from Pelican parts:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/inde...FR8sFQodmlwiEA



PHASE 2 — Removing the 2-spoke wheel:


1.) Straighten your wheel to be perfectly centered.


Disconnect your battery using a 10 mm socket, but leave the boot open, because if you shut it, you have no way to open it back up to hook the battery back up, (in the case of a MINI Cooper S).


Wait 15 minutes before disconnecting your airbag, just to be on the safe side, and guarantee all current in the system has fully dissipated.





























 

3.) CAREFULLY remove the airbag, by disconnecting the green and black wire connectors from the back.


Place the airbag face up on the ground, away from your car and work area.






Here you can see the ends of the two Torx screws you loosened in the previous step...

2.) Using a T30 Torx screwdriver, loosen the Torx screw on either side of the steering wheel. It will not come out; just loosen it enough to pull the airbag out...

4.) Remove the two wiring connectors.


5.) Remove the center steering wheel bolt, using a 17mm socket.


6.) Remove the steering wheel by pulling it STRAIGHT towards you. DO NOT ROTATE THE STEERING WHEEL.


If you moved the wheel left or right at all, make sure the white plastic circle behind the wheel (the volute spring), is rotated back to being completely straight up and down. It is imperative that this piece remains centered.

PHASE 3 — Putting on the new JCW wheel

7.) Put the new JCW steering wheel on, making sure it is lined up perfectly with the small teeth on the steering shaft. There is one tooth at the bottom of the shaft that is larger than all the other teeth, so this should be easy. Screw in the center bolt, again with a 17mm socket.

8.) Begin putting in the connecting line. I referred back to the diagram up a the top of this page, to get the wires in the correct location. Luckily, the connectors are color-coded, and uniquely shaped.

9.) Connect the multifunction spoke covers to the connecting line, and push them into place.


Once connected, screw a 4 x 12mm T20 Torx screw into the spoke cover, from the back side of each spoke.

10.) Once all three spoke covers are in place, and screwed in from the back, route the connecting line through to the back of the wheel housing; getting it out of the way of the soon-to-be-installed airbag.

11.) Connect the black and green connectors to the back of the new 3-spoke-specific airbag. Then push the airbag straight into the steering wheel, until you feel a distinct click on both the left and right sides of the airbag, locking it in place.


Push on the airbag a few times, to make sure it is seated properly. It should move in and out a couple millimeters, due to the fact that this is now your horn button!


12.) Hook up your battery. Reset your clock.


You’re done! Enjoy you’re new wheel!

The hard, (and expensive), way; going from a 2-spoke to

a 3-spoke JCW steering wheel...

Diagram courtesy of REAL OEM.com