If you're looking for color at the mid-elevations in the North Carolina high country, you might not want to look too far past this weekend. We know this because of last weekend.
Last weekend, we took a post-layoff trip to Black Mountain, about 10 miles east of Asheville. Black Mountain is known for two things. In the mid-20th century it was home to Black Mountain College, one of the most eclectic institutes of learning this country has seen. Today, it’s home to a growing arts community highlighted, in this guy's opinion, by Song of the Wood handmade dulcimers and bowed psalteries, among other instruments. There’s lots more, which our favorite crafty person is happy to tell you about
It is not, however, known for its hiking. At the local outfitter three years ago, while researching "100 Classic Hikes in North Carolina," I inquired about the local hiking scene. I was given a dismissive wave. "The only trails we have around here are at Montreat."
Montreat is an adjoining community that began life in 1897 when a Congregational minister from Connecticut and a delegation of other clergy and lay leaders bought 4,500 acres to establish a Christian retreat. The Presbyterian Church purchased the retreat in 1905. In time, the community developed, Montreat College was founded and the Montreat Conference Center was created. Of those original 4,500 acres, 2,460 were placed in a conservation easement called the Montreat Wilderness. Contrary to what I'd been told, there is some hiking here. About 20 miles worth.
The keystone trail at Montreat is the Graybeard Trail (Hike No. 88). It begins from the Walk Jones Wildlife Sanctuary and climbs — and climbs and climbs — a little over 3.5 miles to the mile high summit of Graybeard. About 2,338 feet of climbing total.
This is stout climbing. The grade may vary by degrees, but you are constantly climbing. Unlike most grinds, though, you won't be looking down the entire time as you grind up the mountain. Rather, you'll be checking the fall display as it unfolds along the humorously named Flat Creek, a rocky obstacle course that gives the water fits. Sourwoods, fall's first responders, had gone deep crimson. The sumacs were a firey orange and the occasional sugar maple had added a bright orange to the mix. Set against a backdrop of hardwoods yet to turn and a vivid blue sky (the temperature never got out of the mid-60s) and it was quite the prelude to fall's main show.
This forest is particularly good for fall color because there's a solid understory, an lofty canopy and a generous gap in between. Mostly, this helps light the forest, giving extra punch to the fall color.
And if you're worried about gas — availability and prices — don't. Before heading back to Raleigh we filled up on $3.19 a gallon regular. More exotic blends were available as well.
