Blade Show, June 4-6, 2010, Table 22R

                                                                          

                                                                             Welcome

        I have been interested in custom knives, and particularly the work of ABS smiths, for many years and in 2005, I finally took the plunge and started forging my own blades  I have received invaluable assistance and advice from many talented ABS smiths and this has no doubt saved me a fair amount of frustration and a number of years of trial and error.  This influence shows in the style of knives that I make.  I prefer making traditionally style hunters, fighters, camp knives and bowies in my interpretation of both the Arkansas/Southwestern and Maryland styles.  I am currently making my first blades in the Japanese style.  I also will be offering kitchen knives in plan carbon steel, stainless and carbon steel laminate and damascus.

    I forge my blades primarily from  Crucible Cru Forge V, W2, 1084FG and pattern welded steel made from W2 or 1084FG and 15N20 .  Traditional very high layer count dark random pattern damascus made from W2 and 1084FG is also available.  Collectable and field blades come with either a flat grind and convex edge or a full convex grind.  Kitchen knives can be made with a number of different grinds depending in the intended use and customer preference. W2 blades can be heat treated using clay to produce a hamon at extra cost.  All blades are spheroidize annealed and heat treated in my Paragon oven and quenched in Parks Heatbath #50.  

    I use polished 416 and 410 stainless steel and etched, cold blued or traditional rust blued 1018 low carbon steel for fixtures and I primarily use figured hardwoods and sambar stag carvers and rolls for handles.  Suitable hardwoods such as figured walnut, curly maple and amboyna burl can be finished using a traditional hand rubbed red alkanet root oil finish of the type used by London bespoke gunmakers.  I do have a very limited quantity of blue-green bark mammoth ivory scales that I got from Don Hanson III, which would be suitable for small full tang knives and some walrus ivory suitable for medium sized hidden tang blades.  I can also use Civil War era wrought iron anchor chain or damascus for fittings at extra cost.   

    All of my knives come with a hand rubbed finish ranging from a 280 grit “user” to 2000 grit “semi-mirror” finish.  Finishes finer than 600 grit on W2 and 1084FG blades will incur a slight extra cost due to the time involved.  For blades made from CruForgeV, any finish finer than 400 will be extra due to the significant abrasion resistance of the vanadium carbides in the steel in its hardened state.   A buffed mirror finish is also available on request for Maryland style knives.  W2 blades with a hamon are normally finished to at least 1000 grit.  Japanese style blades will typically be finished to at least 2000 grit minimum and in the future, I will be offering finer finishes on unmounted blades with a copper habaki using hybrid polishing methods with water stones. Kitchen knives can also be finished in this fashion.

All of my knives are totally handcrafted by me with the exception of the sheaths which I currently purchase from Paul Long, Kenny Rowe, Steve Shepard. and Treestump Leather   Sheaths are provided at the maker’s current retail price.  Knives can also be ordered with a basswood lined, leather covered sheath or one made of polished maple, walnut or other suitable woods with the covering and belt loops done by Paul Long for an extra charge.  In the near future, I will also be offering fine silver wire inlay on handles and wooden sheaths.

Joe Mandt

jmforge@mac.com