Chocolate Truffle “Redux”, 72% chocolate, coconut milk, and coconut oil instead of cream and butter - be still my heart!
When we married, one of the things my wonderful husband brought to our marriage was his delicious chocolate truffles recipe. Well, now that recipe is “community property”, for not only do I make chocolate truffles more often than he does, but I’ve amended the recipe proportions to better fit the Trader Joe’s Pound Plus bars of Belgian chocolate and an even stick of butter.
For some time I’ve been thinking about how to amend our truffles using a much darker chocolate, in the 70+% cocoa solids range. Previous attempts to substitute 72% cocoa solids chocolate for the dark bittersweet chocolate (55-56% cocoa solids?) were disastrous, as the butter oil separated out during stirring and would not blend back in without major adjustments of cream and chocolate (making note-taking of amendments difficult). Clearly, the proportions of fat to chocolate solids to emulsifying properties of that recipe were all off with chocolate that dark.
And lately I’ve been converting a number of my recipes to more paleo-friendly ingredients, using coconut milk and coconut oil sometimes instead of cream, milk, and butter. So, being Valentine’s Day (an inspiring day for chocolate-lovers), it was time to start monkeying around with the truffle recipe (though sorry, it’s too late to surprise your Valentine with truffles this year, but I’m sure you can find another suitable occasion).
Non-dairy creamer and margarine, made with hydrogenated vegetable oil, were out of the question as substitute ingredients for dairy, due to trans fatty acids, an excessive amount of omega 6 fatty acids, etc., not to mention those “edible food-like products” just taste plain awful. I’d eat a plain chocolate bar or go without chocolate before eating non-dairy truffles made with those ingredients.
But would coconut milk be rich and silky enough to substitute for heavy cream? How much do the milk solids in dairy contribute to the flavor of the truffles? And how much coconut oil to use, because already I knew 8 tablespoons of butter was too much for the 72% chocolate. A quick search online yielded a number of decent looking non-dairy truffle recipes (dare I say vegan?), though I quickly clicked away from any that used soy milk or other highly processed non-dairy “franken-foods” that I typically avoid. But reviewing non-dairy truffle versions others have posted, I got enough sense of where to begin with my ingredient proportions, without worrying about ending up with something entirely unusable.
So yesterday morning, while my jet-lagged husband slept in, I started making truffles. I first started a batch of the original recipe as a control (plus it was a fall-back dessert for our Valentine’s Day dinner just in case the experimental batch was a complete flop). Already knowing the separation problem with the butter and the 72% cocoa solids chocolate, I opted to keep the coconut oil amount very low, 2 tablespoons of added fat instead of 8 in the standard recipe. A standard can (13.5 oz.) of coconut milk worked well in place of the 1-3/4 cups of heavy cream. I used Golden Star brand of coconut milk (product of Thailand), made with no gums/emulsifiers or preservatives (only coconut and water), which is a bargain at $1.19 a can, found in the International Foods aisle of Ralph’s supermarket (owned by Krogers), though I’m sure any canned coconut milk would work as well (not reduced fat or “light”, though). The coconut oil I’m currently using is Nativa Organic Extra Virgin coconut oil, but any good unrefined coconut oil will do (most “health” or “natural” food stores, as well as vitamin/supplement stores, stock coconut oil if you can’t find it in a conventional supermarket, and coconut oil is readily available from many online merchants). I bought the 54 oz Nativa coconut oil online when I had a coupon code, and it’s stored in my pantry (an unheated oddly shaped closet under the staircase - when the door is kept closed, it’s a few degrees cooler than the rest of the house). I transfer a pint or so of coconut oil to a glass jar to keep in a kitchen cabinet. Coconut oil, being highly saturated, is very, very stable, and will “keep” at room temperature for a long time without going rancid (oxidized), unlike more polyunsaturated plant oils.
The coconut milk, coconut oil, and very dark chocolate made a nice ganache when heated up and mixed, much like the cream, butter, and bittersweet chocolate ganache. Once off the heat, it did set up a bit thicker and faster than the conventional version, probably due to the increased saturation of the coconut oil compared to butterfat. But that could actually be a slight advantage if getting a bit of late start on making the truffles. One needs adequate time to let heat and mix the ganache, then cool it to a manageable temperature and firmness for forming the truffles. Then the formed truffles need to chill again, as well as sit out at room temperature a few minutes before serving, all of which doesn’t lend towards last minute truffle-making. While the hands-on time for truffles isn’t terribly long, the passive chilling time does make truffle making nearly an all-day activity. Plan ahead and start in the morning or the day before you need truffles and don’t forget about them.
I do think the non-dairy coconut version turned out pretty well, though perhaps a bit firmer than the conventional version with dairy ingredients. Also, the coconut oil content of these truffles allows for more time outside the refrigerator at room temperature (perhaps a great characteristic for warm-weather occasions), though I would still chill them for storage. They sat out all evening without becoming too soft or misshapen. The darker chocolate also appeals to my preference for less sweet chocolate, but there may be some who will just find 72% chocolate too strong for their taste. I’ll work on a non-dairy version with the bittersweet 50-56% cocoa solids chocolate soon. But when I shared this “truffle redux” with some neighboring families, seeking brutal honesty, and received thumbs up all around (no one seemed to miss the cream and butter and all liked the bitterness of the chocolate, including some grade school-aged kids, which sort of surprised me), I knew I was pretty close with this version. I might try again soon with a tiny bit more coconut oil to see if I can increase the smoothness, but for now, I think this version will do very nicely.
Let me know what you think if you try these.
Makes approximately 30 to 40 1-inch truffles
Ingredients:
1 can (13.5 or 14 oz) coconut milk, full fat, not “light” or reduced fat
2 tablespoons unrefined coconut oil
1 bar (500 grams) Trader Joe's Pound Plus 72% coco solids chocolate or similar bar of 70-75% cocoa solids, broken into small pieces
Dutch process cocoa powder, sifted to remove lumps
Optional additions:
2 Tablespoons Grand Marnier or your favorite liqueur (Frangelico is also very good)
OR
1/4 teaspoon pure orange extract
(or flavor extract of your choice, such as vanilla, almond, hazelnut, mint, etc. Amount needed will vary by flavor, so add a bit and taste test)
Finely chopped nuts for truffle exterior instead of cocoa powder (we especially like macadama or hazelnuts)
Whole or half nuts to embed in truffle centers
Instructions:
1) Put coconut milk and coconut oil into a saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring all the while, until coconut oil is melted and mixture just comes to a boil. Do not let mixture come to a rolling boil. Remove from heat.
2) Off the heat, add chocolate pieces to the coconut milk mixture and stir until chocolate is completely melted and there are no remaining chunks of chocolate (smaller pieces melt faster). Continue stirring until the ganache thickens and cools a bit. Stir in the liqueur or flavored extract, if using. Transfer ganache to a shallow dish for faster cooling, then to the refrigerator. Let mixture thicken at least 2 hours, perhaps longer, but stir it 3 or 4 times as it cools and thickens.
3) Place some sifted cocoa powder or finely chopped nuts in a shallow container. To form the truffles, remove chocolate mixture from refrigerator. If it has become too firm, let the container sit at room temperature until the ganache reaches a clay-like consistency (do not be tempted to microwave it).
4) Scoop small portions of the chocolate ganache with a teaspoon, then knock off the chocolate with another teaspoon (like when making "drop" cookies). Or alternatively, scoop ganache with a very strong stainless steel 1” dough scoop, and drop into the cocoa powder or chopped nuts. If using a dough scoop, S/S gear-driven scoops work better than flimsy plastic scoops or those with springs. Do not worry if truffles are not perfectly round, but do make them approximately the same size; they are meant to be reminiscent of irregular truffles from the forest, not perfectly identical, like fancy bon-bons.
Alternate finishing technique: scoop truffle mixture (and embed a whole nut in center if desired) and roll quickly between the palms of your hands, then roll in cocoa powder or chopped nuts. Work fast so chocolate doesn't melt too much. This is the messier technique, though it does make nicely rounded truffles, but once your hands are covered in chocolate, it’s pretty much guaranteed the telephone or doorbells will ring, your nose will itch, or your kid will split a lip, so considered yourself forewarned.
5) Then slightly shake the cocoa or chopped nut container to roll the truffle until completely covered with cocoa (nuts might need to be pressed or rolled into place with the hands). Remove truffle to serving plate or storage container. Repeat with another truffle. Chill.
The truffles are best consumed in a day or two, but will keep at least a week in the fridge (they lose a little creaminess over time due to moisture evaporation). Let them sit at room temp a few minutes before serving for best flavor/texture.
Note: Any good cocoa powder will work, Dutched (alkaline-treated) or “natural”, but I prefer the dark richer flavor and color of Dutched. I use Callebaut Dutched cocoa powder from Chocolatesource.com. Ground cinnamon or other spices added to cocoa is nice, too.
For longer storage, freeze in an airtight container for up to a month. Thaw in fridge. Creaminess is reduced a little after freezing, but no one complains.
Going Against the Grain
Sunday, February 15, 2009
