the Walrus said
The group met in the hotel lobby bright and early Monday morning - duffel bags packed, plastic bags of clean clothes ready to be sent via train, remaining gear ready for storage. Romulo, our tour guide, Ramiro, our assistant guide, and Alejandro, our assistant cook, were there to meet us. This was it ..
It was a two-hour bus ride to km 82, where we would begin the trek. On the way, we made a quick stop in Ollantaytambo. I bought a walking stick - just in case. While our luggage was transferred and Alejandro ran into the market, we walked through narrow cobblestone streets and up steep terraces and steps to the fortress ruins.
The ruins had double doorjamps - a rarity, indicating the importance of the site - two steep ramps to enable them to maneuver giant boulders up to the ruins, and an unfinished Sun Temple. Across the valley, you could see large buildings that once housed agricultural products.
If you look closely, you can also see a face in the mountain. Legend says (possibly misquoted slightly by me) that an Incan lord with great wisdom and knowledge was given the task of traveling to all the cities to impart his wisdom to the inhabitants. When he reached Ollantaytambo, he fell in love with the ruler’s daughter, married her, and forgot about his mission. The gods sent him to the mountain and he was turned into stone. Poor guy .. [Note the face in the center of the mountain - between the triangular section of the cliff face and the small square windows on the right.]
Then it was back on the bus and on to km 82, where we met our porters, grabbed snacks, and set off. Set off being relative, as we first had to take a group photo beneath the Inca Trail sign, and wait in line at the checkpoint. Once we were all checked in, the hike really began.
Day 1 of the hike is typically called a training day. Give-or-take 7.2 miles, 4.5 hours, and from 8,528’ to 9,840’ feet in elevation. Flat. Hah. Meaning it’s a lot like my trail runs on the Wildwood - many ups and downs. But since the rest of the days on the trail are steep uphills and downhills, it’s flat in comparison.
It was gorgeous - views of the Urubamba River valley, small villages, the Llactapata ruins, snow-capped Mount Veronica, and wildflowers. I stayed at the back of the group with Ramiro and Lindsay, which turned out to be our position for most of the trek (usually joined by Joan as well). We were in no hurry, and Ramiro spent a great deal of time pointing out flowers to us. (Alas, except when Joan was around, it must’ve been like trying to teach a particularly dense class. “What’s this?” “Did you tell us already?” “Yes.” “Does it start with an ‘A’?” “No.” ..) Plus, I tend to stop a lot for photos.
We stopped on a grassy lawn after an hour and a half for a snack (where we were joined by a small dog and children - all looking for food), then for lunch after another hour or so. A few more hours of hiking later, and we arrived at the first night’s campsite at Huayllabamba. I should note that the toilet at that campsite was up a rather steep hill. Someone must’ve been chuckling.
We were introduced to tea-time that first day- usually an hour after we arrived at camp - and a few hours before dinner. Time for cocoa, coffee, or tea, bread and butter, and chitter-chatter about the day. I miss tea-time. Every day should have it.
And thus ended the first day of hiking. It wasn’t easy, but it was very enjoyable. But I wasn’t worried about the first day; I was worried about the second day.
categories: travel, vacation, photo share
and we’re off !!!
Friday, October 19, 2007
hiking the Inca trail - day 1
