The Jordanian people are incredibly hospitable and welcoming; it’s nearly impossible to walk down the street without being greeted with a handshake and ahlan wa-sahlan (literally, “welcome”).

Trying to adapt myself to the culture, a friend of mine and I bought full Arab garb today on recommendation from our teacher, including the white dishdash (long robe), black ‘abiyya (longer robe worn over the dishdash), and white headscarf. We put the clothes on; the shop owner said I looked like Lawrence of Arabia, which I guess is probably true. We walked out on the street, but apparently stood out even more.

I was careful to cover my blonde hair, the most distinguishable Western feature in possess in a culture where my skin, though light, isn’t impossibly Arab. Nevertheless, we attracted strange stares all up and down the street. One one corner, a man ran out of a shop and yelled, “Yaa sheikh! Yaa sheikh!” It turns out that the white headscarf I was wearing is traditionally worn by tribal sheikhs. Who knew. I’m headed back tomorrow to get a scarf for a commoner.

The Jordanians were generally supportive of our choice of clothes and encouraged us to experience the culture to the maximum extent, even if they found us hilarious. It took a little getting used to walking around in the robe, but the outfit is very comfortable.