"The journey is the reward." 
-Taoist Saying

Cycling in New Zealand

First and foremost NZ is a friendly place.   The people there are great!  While not a geographically large place, it is hugely diverse in  natural resources, offering a vast diversity in short traveling distances.   It is also a melting pot of travelers from all over the world.

For the bicyclist, what sets New Zealand apart is the ease of travel.  In many ways it is well set up for bicycle travel.   The roads are in good condition and navigation is easy.   Most importantly though,  accommodations are conveniently located and reasonably priced.  While many long distance cyclists tend to be frugal and often camp, it is possible to travel NZ without a tent and stay solely at backpackers and hostels since there is such a large number of them (and the number is always expanding).  If you can stand sleeping 4 to 6 to a room these little gems offer a dry, clean and relatively inexpensive place to stay with a "real" bed.  If sleeping in group rooms isn’t our thing most offer double and single rooms. All offer a full kitchen with all the utensils necessary to make and eat a meal, all you need is your own food and creativity!  During the busy months I recommend calling in advance as you will occasionally come across those that are completely booked.  

Most of the developed campgrounds (i.e. - non-rustic) are impressive too, not necessarily because of the campground itself, but because they all offer cooking facilities (not always with eating utensils) and showers. Many offer socializing rooms too, some with televisions.  Combine the two options and you are rarely at loss of places to stay no matter where you end up in NZ.

Most cyclists seem to like travel on the South Island the best.  One reason for this is that it less populated than the North Island which translates into less traffic.  That isn't to say that there isn't traffic in some areas and there aren't trucks that occasionally pass very close, there are.  In general though, traffic is at an acceptable level.  You may also notice a different in driving styles from the top of the SI to the bottom.  Towards the bottom, vehicles seem to give cyclists more
room and will often wave to you.

While my travels around the South Island amounted to about 2,000 miles, cyclists with less time should be aware of some unique opportunities there.  Shuttle (small buses) routes cover most of the island and the shuttles are capable of carrying bikes on their racks (call and let them know you have a bike).  There is a small extra fee for the bike, but this alternative allows many cyclists to skip certain areas that are less interesting to them and cycle through the areas they most wish to see.  They are also helpful when the route into a location is the same as the route out like the northern tip of the SI to Farewell Spit (think Whalerider) or if you fall behind schedule for whatever reason.  The predominant shuttle companies are Atomic Shuttles, K-Bus on the north tip and Bottom Bus on the south end and Catilins.

I highly recommend NZ for the unguided cycle tourist.  There is no problem getting off the plane, assembling your bike and setting out for adventure.  I literally did no planning for my first two month trip.  It is truly easy to get around, though you will want to get a few items when you arrive there or before.  A good map with detail views of larger cities (the auto club there has free maps if your a member back home).  A copy of the book Pedallers Paradise (there is a separate one for the North and South Islands, available in the U.S. from Pedal the Planet).  Peddlers Paradise is a smart thin book that gives all of the sections of riding on the islands with distances, elevations, amenities en-route and comments.  Finally, and this isn’t necessary, a recent copy of The Lonely Planet Guide to New Zealand.  The LP guide is good for finding restaurants and interesting activities to do along with the authors comments about the various things listed in the book.  Campground and hostel guides can be picked up while you are traveling.

"I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I intended to be.  -Douglas Adams

   "...then again, maybe not"  -CycleBloke

About staying in New Zealand

My time in NZ was spent equally split between camping and using backpackers (I use the term to be synonymous with all hostels).  What you choose will depend on several things including weather, proximity to the town you want to be in, convenience and finances.  There are good things to be said about either choice but a few things you should keep in mind.

Larger cities like Christchurch, Queenstown and Auckland often draw younger crowds.  This may be a consideration in choosing a hostel as many of these folks live to party and wander in at all hours of the night and in various states of sobriety.  BBH puts out a great guide for their backpacker members which includes a rating based upon customer surveys.  I found this to be an invaluable guide for choosing which backpackers to stay at.

For those who have not stayed at backpackers or hostels they have some advantages over hotels.   First and foremost, they attract travelers for all over the world.   It is a great setting to meet new people, talk about travels and find friends to do things with.  If you're traveling on your own this is a great resource since you are almost forced into socialization.  Some like Chez La Mer in Akaroa have very active owners who, if your there at the right time, might offer to take you fishing with them (small fee) and perhaps even BBQ up the meal when you get back.  I have spent countless hours in places like this talking to wonderful people from all over the world.   Again, the BBH guide, with its survey driven rating system, will help you make better choices on which hostels to choose.

Many campgrounds also offer a similar setting to hostels, though I find them slightly less social than hostels, but this will depend on the mix of people in the campground when you are there.  Personally, I  consult both the camping guides and hostel ratings before making a decision.

Regardless of your choice, you will want to consider bringing some sets of ear plugs (they're quite expensive there).  You will need these whether you camp or hostel.  Being politically correct, once it gets dark people make all kinds of  interesting noises so you'll want to be prepared.  You'll also be amazed at how a couple of creative people in a tent barely big enough for one can keep you up until the wee hours of the morning completely oblivious to the fact that tent walls are only a fraction of a millimeter thick and tents are only a few feet apart.  Enjoy!

"...he's cheap. he's frugal, a true tightwad..."
-what friends are saying about CycleBloke :-)


Things I’ve learned along the way!!

New Zealand is a safe and friendly place.  I still recommend that you exercise good judgement when it comes to your safety.  This means locking your bike and having a handle on your surroundings.  There was a recent incident with a German girl who was hitchhiking alone and was killed.  This is rare event and bad people exist everywhere, just exercise prudence.

Odds are you won’t simply want to cycle while you are there.  There is great hiking, mountain biking, river activities, etc.  If you foresee yourself doing these things bring your outdoor equipment (ie: hiking shoes, sandals, etc).  Outdoor equipment tends to be VERY, VERY expensive there.  Items like Teva sandals often cost twice what they cost in the States and that goes for just about all outdoor clothing (don’t even think about buying gore-tex there!).

If you anticipate doing some hiking, particularly over night hiking, on any of New Zealand’s renowned tracks keep a couple of things in mind.  First, most of the tracks are supported by huts so it is not necessary carry your tent. It may be necessary to book with the DOC in order to secure you bed though so keep that in mind. Second, there are a lot of people traveling besides yourself so odds are you won’t be alone most of the time.

If you are traveling single don’t fret.  New Zealand is filled with travelers just like yourself.  Half of my riding was done with other people whom I simply met along the way.  On the days I didn’t ride with anyone, I always met people in the hostels and campgrounds.  Often I would do things with the folks I met like hiking, kayaking, river luging, movies, plays, pubs and dining.  Honestly, traveling alone is only a big deal if you let it be.  If your fairly outgoing you’ll find lots of friends.

One thing you don’t need to bring while biking is cooking equipment.  As mentioned, hostels and campgrounds normally provide this equipment.  Most of the people I spent time with ate out often.  I will pass along one tip though.  Breakfast in New Zealand costs more than breakfast in the States and coffee is charged by the cup so it’s not unlimited.  New Zealand doesn't offer a lot of drip coffee, they have long blacks, short blacks, flat whites etc.  Sometimes they’re good sometimes its just watered down espresso (personal bias!).  I did find Starbucks in Invercargill, Deundin and Christchurch.  Only the Christchurch Starbucks had freshly brewed drip coffee, though all of them sold it by the pound.  I suspect that’s because there were more Americans in Christchurch coming off “the ice” (Antarctica).

I have been asked several times about organized tours.  There are many tour operators in New Zealand and from the web sites they appear pretty decent, but expensive.  This is my two cents worth.  If you don’t have much of an adventure spirit and a bunch of money burning a hole in your pocket you might consider a tour.  They seem expensive and most don’t cover that much of the island. In my opinion, you are better off utilizing the links on this page and building your own tour that includes hikes, sea kayaking, river activities, caving, wine tours, etc.  (ex.  ride to the south end of Able Tasman. On the first day go on a boat tour that drops you off in the park allows you a day hike along the beautiful undulating coastline and then picks you up further down the park late in the day.  You get an incredibly beautiful hike and it’s only one day.  The next day you might go on a sea kayak tour of one of the prettiest areas in the park.  Two days and you’ve done the best and move on.  You might do something similar with the Milford Sound fjords and the activities in Queenstown).  Bike Victoria used to do a Bike New Zealand ride, but I haven’t seen it listed lately.  Bike Victoria is Australian organization that is similar to Adventure Cycling in the US.  This is cheaper than a regular tour and would be a great add on if they ever do it again.

Finally, and I state this time and again, don’t over think the trip.  The trip will develop on it’s own once you get there and meet people.  If you do too much planning you might well miss some of the best adventures!!



Which Bike Should you take??

The answer to this question will depend on what type of bikes you have and what you plan to do.  I know a lot of intellectual cyclists who rationalize everything.  The truth is when you get out there you will find people on all sorts of bikes; single speeds, seven speeds, folding bikes, touring bikes, mountain bikes, trikes, recumbents and custom bikes that cost as much as a car.  Mountain and touring bikes are the most prevalent, with mountain bikes edging out touring bikes in my experience.  Your bike should be the one that gets you through the worst possible conditions you anticipate.  It is possible to rent bikes longer term from certain companies there, but the longer the term the less financial sense it makes.

Personally, I don’t like to be confined to sealed roadways so I ride a Rohloff equipped mountain bike.  With high pressure 1.5 inch tires it will handle most conditions well (quick on sealed roads, good on dirt), with 1.75 inch high pressure tires it will handle everything.  Many hardtail mountain bikes have similar frame geometry to touring bikes with shorter seat tubes and head tubes. The difference comes in wheel size, gearing (New Zealand can be a very hilly place) and flexibility. Most high end touring bike manufacturers are making more and more 26” wheeled touring bikes these days for the very reasons I list here.

At the end of the day it’s a personal choice. Regardless of what you choose, get a good set of wheels, more than anything these will get you through the tough parts. It’s not common but spokes do break so carry some and a spoke wrench as you won’t always find a shop to fix your wheel.  

I am often asked about panniers and trailers.  You will see both in New Zealand and I have talked to a lot of people about their experiences.  It comes down to personal choice.  I love them both.  My current trip will be with Arkel Panniers, but it could just as well be with my BOB trailer.

Again, don’t over-think it.  It’s all been done before and on things that would surprise you.


What to Pack

Some folks like to list our everything they take on a tour.  I’m not one of those people.  I will spell out a few important things that might answer a some questions though.

First, I need to mention something about New Zealand’s climate.  Since it’s summer there when it’s winter here you might think about taking only your shorts.  That would be a mistake.  The day time temperatures will vary from the 50’s to the low 70’s based on location.  The evening temps will be from the mid 40’s to about 60.  The west coast is dubbed the “wet coast” since it rains a lot there, hence the rain-forests, glaciers and beautiful waterfalls in Fjordland.  

With that in mind you will want to consider the following:
-A light weight fleece (a new water resistant soft fleece would be great)
-A light weight rain jacket
-A pair of long pants for off cycle activities
-A water tight tent - sounds obvious enough (I’m partial to tunnel tents now since they have the best vestibules when it rains)
-Sleeping bag (I use a 40 degree down bag and carry an insert that adds about 10 degrees)
-Adequate tools (NZ may be developed but bike shops tend to  be in the big cities which can be a long way from where you breakdown)
-If you have a GMS phone make sure it is unlocked and you can get a NZ simm card that allows free incoming calls.  Making calls isn’t cheap though.
-EAR PLUGS - you will need them!  They aren’t cheap there!  Bring several pairs
-A light weight backpack.  You will want to use it when walking about towns or hiking.  I didn’t have one so tried a grocery bag on one hike.  Yeah, that was stupid.

I didn’t bring a few of these things and ultimately bought them there at expensive NZ prices.



Links

Guides to Hostels:
BBH, YHA

Guides to Transportation (South Island):
Atomic Shuttles   the most extensive 
K Bus    north end
Bottom Bus  south end, Catlins
All of the rest

Essential Guide Books:
Pedaller’s Paradise There is a separate one for the North and South Islands.  It is the best book you will buy, period.

Other Great links:
New Zealand Department of Conservation (DOC)  National Parks, The Great Walks (hikes), rustic camping, etc.
http://www.abeltasman.co.nz  Proprietor site that gives a sampling of experiences available at Able Tasman
http://www.fiordland.org.nz/Explore-Fiordland/Milford-Sound/Default.asp  Milford Sound and Fjordland link
http://www.catlins.org.nz  Overview and Guide to the Catlins
http://www.bankspeninsula.info  Banks Peninsula Info


Notes on Equipment

Panniers.  Most panniers will work fine.  I used Ortlieb’s the first time.  They are waterproof and have a convenient latch system.  They are top loaders though, which means you will have to root through them in order to find things.  That was a bit of a pain for me, though they are a fine pannier.  Now I have  Arkel GT’s.  They’re huge and have tons of pockets.  They are side loaders which makes packing much easier.  I recommend either, but I’m partial to the Arkel’s for ease of use.

Tents.  My first trip was with a REI Half Dome.  It was $99 on sale and worked very well.  REI now has the Quarter Dome which is a pound lighter with only a slightly smaller floor plan and vestibules. Vestibules are important, especially when it rains.  As mentioned I have become a convert to tunnel tents and now use a Hilleberg Nallo 2 GT.  Its the same weight as my Half Dome, but larger.  I can even fit my bike in the vestibule with the front wheel off.  The biggest reason for my change was that when it rains typical American tents have vestibules that open up over the tent entrance allowing water to get in when you go in and out.  If it rains for a couple of days that can give you some water in the tent.  The flip side is that the Nallo is not free standing.  I didn’t fully stake out my tent on my last trip in NZ.  One night the wind picked up and literally lifted me and tent off the ground.  As I joked about it a couple of days later, I learned that a woman’s tent did get lifted off the ground and thrown 20 feet.  She was killed when it slammed down on some near by pavement.  



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