Rider Education Basics
Line
The “LINE” is about the fastest way to get around the track in a consistent and repeatable manner. Think about what you see on TV when watching any kind of racing. Drivers/Riders approach a turn from the outside edge, at some point in the turn they will be all the way to the inside of the turn, and at the exit of the turn, they will be all the way to the outside. The actual path that these drivers/riders are on is known as the “LINE”.
The Line is not exactly the same for all riders or all bikes, but there is a target Line to start with that will work for almost everyone. Start from that Line, and modify it for yourself as you determine minor modifications that enable you to go faster.
Learning the Line
You can learn the line by sitting down with a Track Map and analyzing each of the corners, and drawing out the best line. I’ll cover that later on in the section below called Map Your Track. For starters, let’s assume that you don’t know how to map a track on your own.
One of the easiest things that you can do to learn the line is to just go follow someone around the track. If you can, don’t do this at the fastest pace you can go, relax, and learn the line.
NESBA Control Riders (CRs) lead out each session. First session in the morning, they go a relatively slow pace, and point out the preferred line. Try to follow EXACTLY in their tracks as they show you the line. At slower speeds, the line may seem a little too wide, but as you pick up speed later in the day, you will understand the line better.
If you didn’t happen to go out behind a CR, or are learning the track at a Race Practice, be sure to ask around for someone who has been to the track before. Ask for a “sighting lap” to pick up the line, or ask for a “tow”” which is where the lead rider won’t go faster than you can keep up. As you follow this person, and speed picks up, make special not of where you gain on them, and where they pull away from you. These are either weak points for one of you, or an area where the line could be improved.
A Typical Lap
I am going to walk you through a typical lap for those of you that have never been on the track before. This is over-simplified, but is being used as an illustration of how the terms that are defined below are used.
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•Hop on your bike and Grid Up (line up) in the Hot Pit Lane that you were told about in the Riders Meeting.
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•When it is your turn and you are waved out onto the track by the Track Marshall merge out onto the track, NOT crossing the Blend Line and then merge into any traffic. Be sure to look for traffic.
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•Accelerate following the bike in front of you towards the first turn.
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•Roll off the throttle, down-shift, and brake for the first turn.
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•Turn in at the corner Entrance, look to the Apex.
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•Passing the Apex as closely to the inside edge as you can, you look towards the Exit, begin to accelerate smoothly as you stand the bike up.
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•As you reach the Exit of the turn, you are shifting up if necessary and continuing to accelerate towards Turn 2.
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•Accelerate following the bike in front of you towards the first turn.
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•Roll off the throttle, down-shift, and brake for the first turn.
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•Turn in at the corner Entrance, look to the Apex.
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•Passing the Apex as closely to the inside edge as you can, you look towards the Exit, begin to accelerate smoothly as you stand the bike up.
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•As you reach the Exit of the turn, you are shifting up if necessary and continuing to accelerate towards Turn 3.
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•Accelerate following the bike in front of you towards the first turn.
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•Roll off the throttle, down-shift, and brake for the first turn.
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•Turn in at the corner Entrance, look to the Apex.
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•Passing the Apex as closely to the inside edge as you can, you look towards the Exit, begin to accelerate smoothly as you stand the bike up.
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•As you reach the Exit of the turn, you are shifting up if necessary and continuing to accelerate towards Turn 4.
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•And so on... until you are ready to exit or you see the Checkered Flag.
Key Targets
Entrance
The Entrance to a corner may also be referred to as the “Turn In” point. This is the spot on the track where you start moving into the corner, typically from the outer most edge of the track. It is not always from the outer edge of the track, but it is more often than not.
As you may be coming down the straight into Turn 1, it is also VERY important to understand Down-Shifting and Braking prior to the Entrance.
Apex
The Apex of the turn is the point that you will be nearest to the inside edge of the track. This spot is NOT necessarily in the middle of the turn, although that seems logical. The Apex is the single most important spot in each corner. It is imperative that at no matter what level of riding that you are doing, you are as close to the Apex every single turn, every single corner as you possibly can be. Be consistent, be repeatable, ALWAYS try to hit that Apex. (Note: Passing overrules this.)
At the Apex, your bike should be turned and pointed towards the Exit. The Apex exists to get you on the correct Exit.
Exit
The Exit of the turn is typically from the Apex to the outside edge of the track as you leave the turn. The goal would be to make ONE turn, and not have to turn again at the Exit to keep from running off the track. Throttle control can also help steer the bike, please refer to Throttle for more details on how.
What you are after is the MAXIMUM speed that you can have at the Exit of each turn. This requires a good Entrance, nailing that Apex, having the bike TURNED and pointed towards the Exit, and getting on the throttle as early as possible.
Note: Throttle with lean angle equals CRASH, again please refer to the page on Throttle. I cannot stress this enough.
Types of Apexes
Early Apex
A turn that has an Early Apex is a turn where you will be nearest to the inside of the turn BEFORE the mid-point of the turn. Any time that you have an early apex, that will make the exit wider towards the outside of the track.
Late Apex
A turn that has a Late Apex is a turn where you will be nearest to the inside of the turn AFTER the mid-point of the turn. Any time that you have a late apex, that will make the exit narrower towards the inside of the track.
Double Apex
A turn that has a Double Apex is a turn where you will be nearest to the inside of the turn TWICE the during the turn. Any time that you have a double apex, that means approximately halfway through the turn you will be farther away from the inside edge. How far you are from that inside edge may range from a few feet, all the way to the outside edge of the track.
Double Apex turns are very tricky, and take time to get used to.
Types of Turns
Entry Turn
An Entry Turn is a turn where the entry into the turn lasts longer that the exit from the turn.
Exit Turn
An Exit Turn is a turn where the exit from the turn lasts longer that the entry into the turn.
Balanced Turn
An Balanced Turn is a turn where the entry and the exits of the turn are approximately the same length.
Increasing Radius Turn
An Increasing Radius Turn is a turn where the turn gets wider as you go through it, the radius of the turn “opens up”. In an increasing radius turn, you can accelerate smoothly far earlier in the turn since acceleration will make the bike run wider. This would be an Early Apex turn. Note: Refer to Throttle and to Crashing.
Decreasing Radius Turn
A Decreasing Radius Turn is a turn where the turn gets narrower as you go through it, the radius of the turn “tightens up”. In a decreasing radius turn, you can enter it wider and faster and turn in later as the turn tightens up. This would be a Late Apex turn. Note: Refer to Braking and to Crashing.
Constant Radius Turn
A Constant Radius Turn is a turn where the turn has the same radius as you go through it, the radius of the turn is therefore “constant”. In a constant radius turn, the Apex will be closer to the middle of the turn..
Blind Turn
A Blind Turn is where the Apex and/or the Exit is obscured to the rider as he/she approaches the turn. These are typically cased by sharp changes in elevation and sometimes by obstacles such as buildings, bridges, trees, etc... As you might imagine, you need to tread carefully though a blind turn until you know EXACTLY what line you should be on and what speed you should carry through the turn.
Blind Turns by their very nature are very dangerous, and far easier to make a mistake in. However, done right, they provide a great sense of accomplishment to the rider. Just remember that even though you may have the line and the speed down perfectly, there just may be a crash dead center in your line as you come through that blind corner. Pay special attention to the Flags near blind corners.
Chicane
A Chicane is a combination of at least two turns that are very close together. Chicanes are most typically a 90 degree right tun immediately followed by a 90 degree left turn (or vice versa), although they come in all shapes and sizes.
Track designers use Chicanes to slow traffic down or to add variety to the track. Chicanes are found at many tracks and require a quick transition from one side to the other.
As a general rule, it is best to late apex the first half of a Chicane so that you will not be out of position to properly apex the second half of a Chicane.
Targets / Reference Points
Braking Points
Generally the most thought of reference point, a Braking Point is the spot approaching any given corner where you choose to begin to apply brakes. This point will move based on your current speed and line on any given lap. However, having a braking “marker” that you recognize, will help you to be run more consistent and reliable laps.
Many tracks will have braking markers signs as you approach a turn, in sequence (5, 4, 3, 2, 1) approximately 100 feet apart. If you brake at the 3 marker every time, then that is your target or reference point.
Shift Points
The primary focus for shift point is in downshifting. In essence, you want to have the same points for downshifting and up-shifting each lap if you are running consistent laps. The downshifting portion will happen as you begin to set your speed for an upcoming corner. Up-shifting is far simpler, just shift right before you reach the rev-limiter in any given gear. We cover all of this in quite a bit of detail in the Shifting section.
Acceleration
The throttle hand should be gentle and smooth. It should not be abrupt. The goal should be to get the bike turned at the apex, pointed towards the exit of the turn. When this is accomplished, you should remove lean angle, while smoothly adding throttle as you exit the turn.
The goal is to add throttle as quickly and smoothly as possible, without losing traction at the rear tire. Throttle at lean angle is NOT a good thing. It can cause a high-side crash. Apply throttle as quickly as lean angle is removed. True Acceleration is when you can get to full throttle. You don’t want to just “cruise” around the track, you want to be either on the throttle, or on the brakes.
Map your Track
The obvious way to map a track is to print it out, grab a pen or a marker and draw lines on the map at each corner from the outside edge (entrance), to the inside edge (apex) and back to the outside edge (exit). Now all you need to do is to connect the lines between each of the corners.
As you get better at this process, you should look at each corner in reverse. Carefully consider where you need to be as you exit each corner in order to perfectly hit the entrance for the next corner.
Once you have a line laid out that you are confident in, add your braking areas, and your acceleration areas. I like to map it as I have been taught using a red pen, and a green pen. Red is for braking, green is for throttle. If you know anyone who has ridden the specific track before, show them your map, and ask for any improvements or changes that they might offer. (Remember, their input isn’t necessarily correct, it is just different.)
Run through this map until you can visualize it in your head. When you get on the track, try to pick out reference points for your braking areas, your apexes, and your exits. Once you have run a few laps, take a look at your map, and make any necessary adjustments from what you have learned on track.
Breaking Down a Track
Try to look at the track in sections. Depending on the track, I try to break it down to 3 or 4 sections. Try to divide it into sections that are logical and flow together.
Critical Targets
Slow turns are slow, fast turns are fast. Why do I say that here? Because you need to determine the critical sections on the track, or the critical apexes that will make or break a good lap. If you blow the most important apex on the track, it will be very difficult to make up the time or the space between you and the rider who hit that apex.
Mark what you think are the critical apexes or exits on the track. Be sure to nail those spots every lap.
Cambers
Note: Cambers will require you to adjust your line accordingly.
Positive Camber
Also commonly referred to as “On Camber”. A positive camber turn is one that is “banked” towards the inside of the turn. That is, the inside is lower than the outside of the track. Think about an Indy or Nascar track in order to visualize this.
A positive camber turn make is easier to go through the turn at a higher rate of speed since the track itself is helping counteract centrifugal force. Also, since the track is “on camber”, the tire has more surface area on the track at a lower required lean angle, thus providing greater grip through the turn.
Neutral Camber
The corner is flat. It neither helps you turn, nor reduces your turning ability.
Negative Camber
Also commonly referred to as “Off Camber”. A negative camber turn is one that is “banked” away the inside of the turn. That is, the inside is higher than the outside of the track. Think about driving across the side of a hill. Your bike will want to slide downhill, and you have to turn uphill slightly to traverse the hillside at the same level.
A negative camber turn make is far more difficult to go through the turn since the track itself is helping push you to the outside of the turn. Also, since the track is “off camber”, the tire has less surface area on the track at a higher required lean angle, thus providing less grip throughout the turn. Off camber turns are a large contributing factor to low-side crashes.
Track Walks
So you have your track map done.
How do you know the camber of the turns?
How can you more easily determine/recognize reference points?
How can you get a good “feel” for the elevation changes?
Simple, if you can, go for a track walk. You can almost always do this the night before, or right after the track closes. Some tracks will allow you to walk the track at lunch. Make sure to clear it with the Track Marshall and/or the Event Director before stepping onto the track. NEVER step onto a HOT Track (active).