Merged Vogue 9040 and self-draft

I cut the Vogue bodice from the waist up. Then I cut two rectangles for the front and one for the back. I added darts to shape the waist/hip. I lined these with silk organza to give them more structure.

Sleeves: I wanted bishop sleeves, so I used a great book, “Dress Design, Draping and Flat Pattern Making”, by Marion S. Hillhouse and Evelyn A Mansfield. I took the original sleeve that came with the pattern (the tapered, long sleeve, not the flared one), and followed the directions.

I used the guide on the right with also slashing the center line. This is the correct way to slash and spread- notice that the original hem line is equally spaced between slashes, the slashes go straight up from there all the way to the cap seam line.

Below is the cuff I drafted based on my wrist size. The front cuff (to the right) has an overlap of 3/8”. I’ll be making loops and buttons for closing. Those will also go on the left front of the blouse.

First time making loops and buttons. Based on a sample button size, I followed the instruction in the book to calculate the loop size. Each loop is spaced 3/4” apart, the loops curve out 3/8”. The edge of the paper extends 3/8” for seam allowance. Six loops will fit on each cuff. I pinned in place, and machine-basted.

Loops facing down on fabric

A layer of organza will serve as the facing

After attaching the layers

I sewed the side and bottom seams to the organza

Time to adjust the sleeve length. I ended up cutting off about 4”.

Lapped the seam before attaching the cuff to the gathered sleeve

My oh so professional tool for making buttons; a half-used roll of tape.

Baste around the circle

Gather the basting bit by bit, and push the outside edges into the circle

Here it’s pretty much tucked in over my finger

Close off the ball with many stitches to secure

All done... now only 40 more to go!

A few more...

maybe it could work as a wind chime?...

Time to attach those cutie pies.

Below are the inside back and front of the blouse. I only lined the bottom half with silk organza, and used organza for facing, as well as an extra layer of organza on the collar.

I’m making the buttons because there will so many of them and the fabric is light weight. Regular buttons would simply pull down on the fabric.

Back collar (inside, before stitching down the organza facing, and outside after finishing.)

Buttons coming along...

I cut the lower front wrong, so now, instead of going straight down, it will slant outwards. Oh well.. life- lemons... etc...

I like the cuffs, they look just like I had envisioned them.

Just look at how the fabric unravels!! A pain to work with... but its so pretty!