Fitting the the sleeve

I finally got the bodice down close to where I want it, so it was time for the sleeves. I spent quite some time draping and easing. This sure is a fitted coat! In the end I attached the two sleeves and found that they need to be shaped in order for the arm to move more freely. See the difference below:

I also kept fiddling with the dart, and decided I had to move it down to MY bust point! That’s what darts are for, right? That made it look so much better, and I’m now really excited to make a complete, full-length muslin with collar, pockets and shoulder straps.

This is how Thumbelina sleeps- she must have been a dog in a prior life...

Another day... My new full-body dress form arrived! She’s very friendly so I think we’ll be getting along.

Here is what I ended up with for the sleeves:

After taking the pinned sleeve apart, I realized that it wasn’t a cut curve that shaped the sleeve, but rather the ease of the back sleeve seam to the front sleeve seam. I added 1/2” ease for the upper seam and 1/4” for the underarm seam. I’m sure this is pattern making pre-beginner and that’s exactly where I belong. Anyway, the difference is quite obvious don’t you think?... In all fairness, the one with ease has the arm attached, the other one does not (the form only comes with one arm attachment.)

Back sleeve eased

Back sleeve not eased

I also got the back neck fitted by taking it in...

... and lowered the darts.

Tomorrow is another day... maybe the one for a COMPLETE muslin...

The fabric that I’ll be using for binding arrived from Spandex World. It’s very different, much more subtle, but it’ll have to work.