DSLR Guide 4 - Program Modes
 
Before you start reading, please find your camera’s manual and have it handy - like it or not, you will have to refer to it!  Also, it is worth reading DSLR Guide #3 in order to understand some of the terms used in this article.
 
When you first start to use your digital SLR, you may find it convenient to use the selection of program modes to help you take your first shots.  
 
If you’ve had a film SLR or a digital camera before, there’s every possibility that you’ve encountered program modes before.  They are essentially settings suitable for the particular type of photograph you’re taking - you choose the mode, the camera does the rest.  It analyses the scene you’re pointing the camera at and chooses settings accordingly.  As you’ll see in later articles, the program modes are far from perfect, but they are a good starting point for new users.
 
Different cameras have different modes, so check your manual to see which ones your camera includes and exactly what each mode does.  To use a program mode, just turn the control dial to the relevant picture.  Here are some of the common program modes you’ll find on most consumer DSLRs.  This information is based on the settings available on the Nikon D70 and on my previous camera, the Canon Powershot G3.  Some higher-end DSLRs don’t have program modes at all.
 
Auto
Turns your DSLR into a point-and-shoot.  When you’re in this mode, everything is taken care of for you.  It assumes you would like the whole frame to be as in-focus as possible and that the scene is fairly static.  Fine for snapshots, but no allowance is made for more unusual circumstances - the camera doesn’t know how fast your subject is moving, for example, which is why the other modes are a little more specific.
 
Portrait
In this mode, the camera knows that what you’re really interested in is just the subject you’re focusing on.  It uses a large aperture to blur the background, drawing more attention to the subject.  If it thinks it needs to use the flash, the on-board flash unit will pop up automatically, although you can turn this off if you want.  I’d recommend trying to shoot most portraits without flash as it’s a harsh light and you may encounter red-eye problems.
 
Landscape
With this setting, the camera understands that you’re looking at a great view and you’d like to make it look as good in your picture as it does in reality.  This mode uses a small aperture to get as much of the scene in focus as possible.  It also enhances the colours and contrast in the landscape.  Flash is automatically turned off in this mode as there isn’t a flash in the world powerful enough to illuminate a whole landscape!
 
Macro/Close-Up
If you’re photographing flowers, plants or insects close up, this is the mode to choose.  It enhances colours like greens and reds and uses a medium aperture to get the best macro shot possible.  In order to take full advantage of this mode, you’ll need a lens capable of macro photography (see the lens advice in ‘Getting To Grips’).  You may also find a tripod useful to prevent shaky shots.  If necessary, the flash will be used in this mode unless you tell it otherwise.  If it does flash, check that shadows aren’t cast across the subject.
 
Sports
This uses a fast shutter speed to freeze motion, helping you to get a sharp shot of fast-moving subjects.  Flash is turned off and the camera may focus continuously, helping you track the subject as they move while still keeping them in focus.  Most cameras will also allow you to take several consecutive frames without taking your finger on the button (this is commonly known as ‘burst mode’) just by keeping the shutter button pressed down.
 
Night Landscape
So you’re standing in front of a floodlit bridge just after the sun’s gone down and you think ‘that would make a great photo’.  This mode is designed to help you capture that image.  It uses a slow shutter speed and a small aperture to record the light and keep as much of the scene as possible in focus.  However, this is not a fool-proof mode by any stretch of the imagination.  It is almost impossible to keep your camera completely still when you’re using a slow shutter speed so in order to get a sharp shot, you should try to place the camera on some kind of support - either a tripod or a wall - to avoid camera shake.  A remote release of some description is another valuable accessory here so that you’re able to trigger the shutter without actually touching the camera.  Alternatively you could use the self-timer feature.  This mode switches the flash off, as it wouldn’t be powerful enough to illuminate the whole scene and using it would destroy the colours you’re trying to capture.
 
Night Portrait
The same rules apply, but in this case the camera provides a burst of flash to illuminate a subject in the foreground.  
 
Other Modes
Your camera may have other modes in addition to the ones I’ve mentioned here so again, look through your manual to find out what your model provides.  
 
If you have any comments on this series, or would like to suggest topics for me to cover in the future, please e-mail me using the link below.
 
 
Saturday, 20 May 2006
Techniques, tips and tricks to help you take better pictures.