In order to take full advantage of your DSLRs capabilities and start creating images rather than just taking them, you’ll need to discover the more advanced shooting modes available to you.  On most DSLRs there are four advanced shooting modes, but you should check your manual and check what each mode offers.  The following information is based on the Nikon D70, but should be equally applicable to other DSLRs.  

 

Flexible Program Mode

The name varies between different cameras, and the functions may vary but it’s essentially a more adaptable version of the ‘Auto’ program mode.  The camera still analyses the scene and decides what it thinks are the right settings, but you can adjust those settings to suit your shot.  For example, if you think the aperture is too wide, you can alter it without affecting the exposure.  This is a great mode to start experimenting with, as you can see how a different aperture or shutter speed changes the look of the image without having to worry that the picture may end up under or over exposed.  You can also adjust the exposure compensation, allowing you to deliberately under or over-expose a shot.

 

I spend a lot of time in this mode where you choose the aperture and the camera calculates the corresponding shutter speed.  In article #3 we looked at how the aperture can be used to draw the attention towards your subject.  Like the other advanced shooting modes, you can also adjust the white balance and exposure compensation in this mode.

 

If your ability to capture the subject depends on the shutter speed more than the aperture, this is the mode you should be in.  You specify the shutter speed, the camera calculates the aperture.  Before using this mode, you should familiarise yourself with the way your camera warns you that you’re about to under or over-expose a shot as in the shutter priority mode it’s possible to request an unrealistic shutter speed.  For example, if you’re working in low light and request a shutter speed of 1/1000, your shot would probably be underexposed as even the widest aperture wouldn’t be able to provide enough light.  As a safeguard, the viewfinder usually has a way of letting you know you’re making a mistake!   Of course if your are in that situation and just have to get that shot, you could try increasing the ISO, but that’s a whole different article!

 

This is the big scary one - or at least it seems like it should be.  You have control over both the aperture and shutter speed, which means you have to decide on the right balance to get a good exposure.  Actually, most DSLRs will hold your hand a little bit, giving you an indication of whether the settings you’ve chosen are wildly unreasonable or not.  In the Nikon D70, the viewfinder displays a little exposure line, with ‘-’ for underexposed at one end and ‘+’ for overexposed at the other, the perfect exposure (according to the camera) being in the middle.  As you adjust the settings, the exposure line shows you how close you are to the proper exposure.  Bear in mind that what the camera thinks is the correct exposure may not necessarily be right, so be prepared to use your own judgement and adjust accordingly.  Again, this display will vary between cameras, so check the information about Manual mode in your... er, manual.  

 

In the next article: Metering